Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

I've got a Autogauge A/F ratio gauge and wondering where I should connect the O2 sensor?

There are 3 wires coming from the 02 sensor (off the dump pipe). Should I bridge it onto one of these?

or

Between the O2 sensor and the firewall?

or in the car cabin, closer to the ecu?

Also, the I ended up getting those smoke gauges so I need a constant 12V connection to power it. What would be the best place ti find such a connection?

Any help woild be great

Cheers

Sam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/104478-installing-airfuel-ratio-gauge/
Share on other sites

Hey Sam,

Ok it's really easy. The red wire on your O2 is power, the black ground and the white is your signal wire. That's where you want to splice in to. Do not cut the wire, just peel back the cover and wrap your air/fuel gauge wire around it and tape the whole connection securely. As well do this prior to where the O2 sensor/wire harness connection is. That way when you have to change your O2 sensor you won't have to undo the wiring.

Now for a 12v switched power source you can splice in to your headlight controlls so when you turn your lights on at night, the gauges will dim like they are supposed to. Use a test light to locate that wire along with a good chasis ground and your all. The only wire that should be attatched to your O2 sensor is the signal wire from your gague.

I hope this helps out. ;)

Cheers B)

Thanks for that sidewayz. Exatly what I needed. I've decided to to run the power from the car stereo as the gauge needs a constant (whole the car is on) 12V as the gauge is one of those smoked gauges that dissapear behind darkness when not powered.

Ok we have a small issue

There is no Red/Black/Wire combo.

Coming out of my O2 sensore directly are 3 wires. Two white and one black

From the plug to to teh ECU after the plug (about 10cm up) the wires change colour to

Blue

Clear with brown wire

White with brown stripe

WTF?

It looks like mines been altered for whaever reason. Can someone please have a look at their sensor and tell me which wire on my O2 sensor wire combo corrosponds to the usual WHITE sensor wire please?

I'm assuming that the connections haven't changed...only the wire colour.

Here's a pic of what the femail plug running off my O2 sensor looks like (the clip is at the top)

Thanx in advance

Sam

i did mine a few months ago and i just spliced the signal wire into the clear copper wire ( the middle one in your pic ) .... i think its 12v acc that your after and just run it from the cig lighter ....

easy as!!!

Clear copper it was. Thanks guys and Thanks Tosh

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...