Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I cant believe how full of "it" some people are!

AND... I cant believe what I am reading!

There is nothing wrong with and never will be anything wrong with modding an "ageing" car and anyone who says that it is a money pit or a time sink is kidding themselves!

eg:

*R31 Aus spec 4 door average purchase price $3000 - $5000 for a good one.

*R32 Gtst Import - $10000 - $16000 for a good one.

*R33 Gtst Import - $16000 - $21000 for a good one.

*R34 GTT Import - $24000 - $30000 for a good one.

Consider those prices as a stock car purchase (no mods) now...

I know R31's and if anyone wants to argue that point PLEASE DO!

A good R31 RB25DET conversion can be done for under $7000 I know because I did one!

As for the brakes and suspension - The brakes dont need major upgrading unless the car is going to see track every now and then just a good set of High temp pads and slotted rotors is enough plus the obvious things like new fluid, wheel bearings and mabye a caliper rebuild, all up - under $1000.

Suspension - Bushes $500 for a full set of urathanes - Fitted, Lowered springs $150 an end and shocks $200 an end.

As for engineering ($600 at the most) - you shouldnt have problem passing it with those mods as long as nothing has been done "bodgy" and the car is road worthy.... Once again I know because I have done it!

All up if the cars exterior is in good condition which isnt rare you shouldnt need to do much else to it apart from maby service or rebuild the diff - $750.

SO - For uner $14000 you will have a VERY nice R31 with ALOT of sleeper apeal and it will be great to drive (and it will upset alot of V8 boys from the lights).

Where as if you buy a later model like a 32 and put an RB25DET in it you will have already spent at least $17000 buying the car and front cut.

So Gus If you want to do it then BLOODY WELL DO IT!

People said that I was an idiot for building my car but look at what it is today and the benifit of it all is that not every joe and his dog has a modified 31 (unlike certain other Skyline models).

Oh and Gus - If you need help with any Parts or work at all let me know cos I can get anything for very cheap (which means it will all be cheaper again) and there is nothing I cant do to a 31.

There Ive said my piece....Now i sit back and wait for the fall out.

Yayyyyyyy!! congrats Gus!!

Getting your first car is the best feeling ever

Yes, it is a Box R31 but hey, its all mine thanks to my brother and his generosity. it's a stock, auto,  white executive, with one flat tyre.

generosity of your brother? is he giving it to you?! :P
I cant believe how full of "it" some people are!

AND... I cant believe what I am reading!

There is nothing wrong with and never will be anything wrong with modding an "ageing" car and anyone who says that it is a money pit or a time sink is kidding themselves!

eg:

*R31 Aus spec 4 door average purchase price $3000 - $5000 for a good one.

*R32 Gtst Import - $10000 - $16000 for a good one.

*R33 Gtst Import - $16000 - $21000 for a good one.

*R34 GTT Import - $24000 - $30000 for a good one.

Consider those prices as a stock car purchase (no mods) now...

I know R31's and if anyone wants to argue that point PLEASE DO!

A good R31 RB25DET conversion can be done for under $7000 I know because I did one!

As for the brakes and suspension - The brakes dont need major upgrading unless the car is going to see track every now and then just a good set of High temp pads and slotted rotors is enough plus the obvious things like new fluid, wheel bearings and mabye a caliper rebuild, all up - under $1000.

Suspension - Bushes $500 for a full set of urathanes - Fitted, Lowered springs $150 an end and shocks $200 an end.

As for engineering ($600 at the most) - you shouldnt have problem passing it with those mods as long as nothing has been done "bodgy" and the car is road worthy.... Once again I know because I have done it!

All up if the cars exterior is in good condition which isnt rare you shouldnt need to do much else to it apart from maby service or rebuild the diff - $750.

SO - For uner $14000 you will have a VERY nice R31 with ALOT of sleeper apeal and it will be great to drive (and it will upset alot of V8 boys from the lights).

Where as if you buy a later model like a 32 and put an RB25DET in it you will have already spent at least $17000 buying the car and front cut.

So Gus If you want to do it then BLOODY WELL DO IT!

People said that I was an idiot for building my car but look at what it is today and the benifit of it all is that not every joe and his dog has a modified 31 (unlike certain other Skyline models).

Oh and Gus - If you need help with any Parts or work at all let me know cos I can get anything for very cheap (which means it will all be cheaper again) and there is nothing I cant do to a 31.

There Ive said my piece....Now i sit back and wait for the fall out.

Shut up mick.

Anyways I forgot to mention gus young lad, I will give you a hand with any work you need help with!

Oh and R31 coupes are cooler so lets weld the back doors! :lol:

Hey Gus, i've got plenty of spare parts if you need any to borrow to get over rego... Just ask Bluprint/Mark about my stock :mellow: I'm in tuggeranong as well, from the sounds of it you are as well.

And... Go all out on mods, don't buy cheap shit here and there and plan a bigger upgrade later. Just get the top range stuff and regret it later.

Edited by StinkyPoo

yeah stinkypoo i see you on R31 club, your silo is nice.

at the moment, ive gotta get rego check and see what needs doing with what, then do myself a little write up of my finances and stuff, see if i wana put some money into it and have me a nice first car, or if i wana save my money and go for a really nice car by the end of the year!

and yes shell he did give it to me :P

I cant believe how full of "it" some people are!

AND... I cant believe what I am reading!

There is nothing wrong with and never will be anything wrong with modding an "ageing" car and anyone who says that it is a money pit or a time sink is kidding themselves!

eg:

*R31 Aus spec 4 door average purchase price $3000 - $5000 for a good one.

*R32 Gtst Import - $10000 - $16000 for a good one.

*R33 Gtst Import - $16000 - $21000 for a good one.

*R34 GTT Import - $24000 - $30000 for a good one.

Consider those prices as a stock car purchase (no mods) now...

I know R31's and if anyone wants to argue that point PLEASE DO!

A good R31 RB25DET conversion can be done for under $7000 I know because I did one!

As for the brakes and suspension - The brakes dont need major upgrading unless the car is going to see track every now and then just a good set of High temp pads and slotted rotors is enough plus the obvious things like new fluid, wheel bearings and mabye a caliper rebuild, all up - under $1000.

Suspension - Bushes $500 for a full set of urathanes - Fitted, Lowered springs $150 an end and shocks $200 an end.

As for engineering ($600 at the most) - you shouldnt have problem passing it with those mods as long as nothing has been done "bodgy" and the car is road worthy.... Once again I know because I have done it!

All up if the cars exterior is in good condition which isnt rare you shouldnt need to do much else to it apart from maby service or rebuild the diff - $750.

SO - For uner $14000 you will have a VERY nice R31 with ALOT of sleeper apeal and it will be great to drive (and it will upset alot of V8 boys from the lights).

Where as if you buy a later model like a 32 and put an RB25DET in it you will have already spent at least $17000 buying the car and front cut.

So Gus If you want to do it then BLOODY WELL DO IT!

People said that I was an idiot for building my car but look at what it is today and the benifit of it all is that not every joe and his dog has a modified 31 (unlike certain other Skyline models).

Oh and Gus - If you need help with any Parts or work at all let me know cos I can get anything for very cheap (which means it will all be cheaper again) and there is nothing I cant do to a 31.

There Ive said my piece....Now i sit back and wait for the fall out.

HA! remind me again why you want to up-grade???

pfff, as if weld doors to make it look like a coupe, 4door AUS spec is where its at -i sold my gt passage so i could go aus again!

good stuff gus, dont let anyone tell you its not worth doing up, and btw, 300 000kms on a RB30 engine is NOTHING. u got at least unuther 200 000, probly more.

-Tom

Edited by kossak

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey everyone, I recently bought myself a 2001 Nissan Stegea M35, and I've had a few issues that I had to fix, my car would start intermittently and I had a bad rocker cover leak, after a couple days of looking I finally found a part number that interchanges with the OEM starter as the OEM starters at $1300 and I can't afford that, this starter was only $270 and I replaced the start and still had the same issues, I posted a video asking for help online and it went very well, some guy said it was probably a bad ignition switch so I took my dash apart and turns out my ignition switch was half screwed in and was loose, once it was tightened it fired right up, I found a local place called "Boost factory" and they sold me a part of OEM Nissan rocker covers, they were $600 which was a shocker but I couldn't find them anywhere else, so I installed them and fixed my oil leak as the old rocker cover was cracked and warped, I now need to replace my boost air inlet hoses as they have some cracks.
    • I am being real ocd and do not want to make amy mistakes so appreciate all help provided. I am overly cautious so asking for opinion even if i know the answer   few questions,   1.re tensioner, should spring be greased lightly?    2.tensioner has two washers , one pressure washer and other has recessed/ seat. I am going to put the recessed one facing tensioner where edges are cut out and pressure washer on top   3. my car has custom triger kit sold few years ago by guy who initially built the engine. I moved the crank gear and it moved in and out easy, only way to remove belt is to slide the crankshaft gear forward which I did. I have seen these being very tough to move , anything to do with my woodruff key?   it has a crank sensor shown in purple which I assume reads from the 12 teeth position mounted to the crankcase gear   4. timing belt doesn’t have arrow stating front or back just a arrow which I think is direction of rotation . Do you agree?   5.i figured out why my crankcase cover was worn as there was no washer installed over the crankcase cover before the harmonic balancer was put in place. It is missing, anyone knows the part number? It looks like this https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-crankshaft-timing-gear-rear-plate-washer-nissan-s13-ca18-a31-r32-rb20-r33-r34-c33-c34-c35-rb25?currency=USD   https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4535.382Zy2 https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4537.382dSz https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4534.382q4U  
    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
×
×
  • Create New...