Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, now everyone says that N/A needs backpressure and stuff and i've been doing some testing with my exhaust and my car.

Basically i have a STOCK R34 25 GT (non turbo)

with the exhaust from factory i have a very nice torque for 2k-4k which then drops

but after i modified the exhaust to bigger and more free flowing

i LOST that down low torque, however gained alot more from 4k-redline.

Im just thinking if i could basically run 1 stock exhaust and then have a flap to a 2nd exhaust with the same diametre, and have a flap open as i hit 4k. so down low, i have the low torque. but if im doing some foot to floor driving, i get the higher range or torque.

sound good? (also should help put this debate of backpressure to rest)

(more power without back pressure, however thats only at redline/high revs.. to an extent of course)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/104740-exhaust-mod-idea/
Share on other sites

just to clarify someone explained to me quite a while ago here in SAU that its not backpressure, but infact volumetric vacuum.

my R33 has something similar with the stock exhaust - basically has a flap with a pulley set up and opens up around 3500-4000rpm

you can hear the thing rattle a bit too..

http://www.hks-hokkaido.co.jp/movie/muffle...hipower_sky.avi

i think this is what ant95GTR is talking about (correct me if i'm wrong)

i reckon this has more to do with silencing than low rpm torque - sounds tough as though!!!!

eug

There are a couple of OEMs (Aston Martin is doing it on a couple of their cars in their range these days, off the top of my head) that do something like this.

At a certain RPM a valve opens in the exhaust, providing more flow up top. I don't know if it just bypasses the centre muffler or if it opens a completely separate set of pipes, but either way the Vanquish and V8 Vantage get a whole bunch of noise high in the rev range.

I'm considering doing something similar in my car if I ever replace the exhaust again. I was going to set up a bypass valve to route gasses around the centre mufflers at high RPM. I'd have it automatically controlled (say at a certain RPM above a certain speed. So on a stationary noise test or in first, and perhaps second, gear it wouldn't open at all) but with a manual override for when I hit the track.

sound similar yes, if its turbo u hear the turbo spool which alters the sound of the engine quite abit, but if u have an ear for it you can still tell its a skyline :P

but no WRX have the distinctive noise because its a boxer engine.

Yea.. my stock exhaust had that flap thing.. I remember when i bought it I was checking out the exhaust going.. ok someone riced my exhaust and only one is open...

Meh it sounded like crap and looked like crap tho...

As seen below..It's actually a pretty cool shot, except my new exhaust looks alot nicer.. no pics of it atm though because, my car is in repair.. Wet roads and my stupidity... :(

oidmqv.jpg

but no WRX have the distinctive noise because its a boxer engine.

Not exactly, as lingering soul pointed out.

The "boxer throb" you get from Subies is because of the crap design of the exhaust, which is forced upon them by the crap design of the engine. I could just as easily make any sound like that. The difference is that its a packaging requirement on a turbo boxer 4, and stupidity on any other kind of engine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...