Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Intercooler Problems

johnbarry88
 Share

Recommended Posts

johnbarry88 Grand Master

johnbarry88

Posted
Posted

Hey i want to put a 600x300 front mount on my skyline i have a r33 ser 1.5 just wondering what intercooler kit i need cuz ive looked at some and i just cant see where the piping will go. In the pictures on the intake side of the cooler the pipe comes from the left up past the fan and then into the original cooler pipe, but in mine theres no possible place i can see for that to happen unless u need to cut something out. The only other thing i can think of is that i need a piping kit that raplaces the original as in follows down the right hand side where the original piping runs and then the intake pipe goes arround the back of the cooler into the intake side of the intercool. Can someone please help me out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105077-r33-intercooler-problems/
Share on other sites
  • 2 months later...
gettingfaster Newbie

gettingfaster

Posted
Posted
show me pics of piping kit

ok i have just dont this and well worth the effort if u take the front bar off put it on the bench and u will find the cooler should sit nicely inside it with a little trimming then i ran a piece of bar across from bumper iron to bumper iron then hung it off there.get it as far foward as possable then u wont get hooked up in the ac fan and u may have 2 turn your horns around as well.i took my windscreen washed bottle our from the drivers side and ran my piping up through a new hole i made when the washer sat.if u plan well u can reinstall the washed on a different angle. if u make the piping yourself u will b able 2 use a lot of the old piping but play and u will see what i mean. i think it is also worth the effort to rum your piping from the turbo across the top of the fan then bring the cold air the short way home up through one of your old intercooler holes. it amazes me when i see so many with a pob filter under the bonnet after fitting a frontmount cos there is a spare hole now on the left and i opened it slightly an ran a 3" bend fight off the turbo inlet rubber through the hole and put my pod where my old cooler used 2 sit .and no shit u will get a good hp gain with out changing anything else .my new cooled had strait outlet piping not sure if yours does well good luck and hope it helps

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...