Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok, my car has been doing this for a while and its pushing me to breaking point

basically, the indicator noise comes on randomly (the actual indicators arent on, ive checked)

so just driving along, you get click click click ....... (nothing for a few minutes then) click click click

occaisionly i am seeing whisps of smoke out of the steering column

the indicators all still work fine, everything on the column does

I JUST CANT STAND THE NOISE ANYMORE

anyone know someone good with skyline auto electrics?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105108-indicator-clicker/
Share on other sites

Wouldn't the puff of smoke tend to indicate the indicator switch is stuffed or shorted???.. its in your steering column...

Pull it out (it pulls out), and buy another one. If it is stuffed the indicators wouldn't work.. From what I remember you'll have to take off the whole steering wheel to get in there.

Actually.. its probably just a short.. Only one way to fix that one.

You been playing with a boss kit lately?

Edited by predator

not lately, but i do have a nardi wheel

its weird, coz the indicators have always worked fine, even when the steering column is smoking;

its just the incessant clicking, always clicking, click click CLICK EVEN WHEN IM NOT IN THE CAR I HEAR THE CLICKING, I CAN HEAR IT NOW

ok, maybe its not that bad, but its getting there :cheers:

Its probably not your indicators if they are working OK.

Probably a relay of some sort in there for something else.

Clicking is the relay switching on and off and smoke is not good.

Has anything else stopped working, wipers rear wipers, hazard lights, alarm, high beam, check everything

I would be doing as mud has said, pull the covers off & go for a drive, oh & make sure u have a fire extinguisher in the car, if that relay sticks shut due to the short (melt the contacts together) you will have a fire...

Another way to do it is to pull the fuze for the wipers & go for a drive then do the same again with the horn fuze. I would not do the same for the indicators though. Process of Elimination...

oh & another thing becareful if the cars got a air bag if its some thing to do with the slip ring it can go off in your face all the bags need to be set off is a spark...

I know some people will say u can not set a air bag off with out being in a smash, wrong if u get a power supply to the detonator, bang bag deployed...

oh & another thing becareful if the cars got a air bag if its some thing to do with the slip ring it can go off in your face all the bags need to be set off is a spark...

I know some people will say u can not set a air bag off with out being in a smash, wrong if u get a power supply to the detonator, bang bag deployed...

he said he has a nardi wheel, doubt it would have an airbag. anyway... soldier on.

yer, no airbag

its a hard one to diagnose, as on any given day, it will be fine

then the next not

as for the smoke, its even rarer, only happens everynow and then (last time was driving down the coast to the bdo, and there was a fair bit of smoke)

ill test everything tonite to make sure everything is working, but it was all working last time i checked

I have had this about a year ago and fixed it by replacing the indicator stalk. (I know what you mean about it driving you craaazzzzy)

When I inspected the old one it had blackened areas where you could see tracking and arcing (it looks like a pretty complex switching arrangement).

El Bee

My indicators have also recently just started to click sometimes randomly but mostly only when i indicate right and the indicator is then turned off, it keeps clicking alot faster.

I've got a mate who's a auto electrican thats fixing mine.

Anyone interested in getting theirs fixed, let me know and he might do yours for you's as well.

mate, ive just sent you a pm;

lunchtime today there was a lot of smoke and a bad smell (as well as the clICK CLICK CLIKC CLICK CLICKC LICKC LCIK)

im gonna go get some quotes saturday morning from local auto electric places also;

bloody money pits!

i had this problem, fixed it by changing whole indicator and light switchs. Got the part from a wrecker for arounf $100, easy to do, take off steering wheel, few screws, unhook some wires, change over then put it all back together and your done. I looked fixing mine to sell but its just all metal slides etc, wouldnt know where to start!

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...