Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok, my car has been doing this for a while and its pushing me to breaking point

basically, the indicator noise comes on randomly (the actual indicators arent on, ive checked)

so just driving along, you get click click click ....... (nothing for a few minutes then) click click click

occaisionly i am seeing whisps of smoke out of the steering column

the indicators all still work fine, everything on the column does

I JUST CANT STAND THE NOISE ANYMORE

anyone know someone good with skyline auto electrics?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105108-indicator-clicker/
Share on other sites

Wouldn't the puff of smoke tend to indicate the indicator switch is stuffed or shorted???.. its in your steering column...

Pull it out (it pulls out), and buy another one. If it is stuffed the indicators wouldn't work.. From what I remember you'll have to take off the whole steering wheel to get in there.

Actually.. its probably just a short.. Only one way to fix that one.

You been playing with a boss kit lately?

Edited by predator

not lately, but i do have a nardi wheel

its weird, coz the indicators have always worked fine, even when the steering column is smoking;

its just the incessant clicking, always clicking, click click CLICK EVEN WHEN IM NOT IN THE CAR I HEAR THE CLICKING, I CAN HEAR IT NOW

ok, maybe its not that bad, but its getting there :cheers:

Its probably not your indicators if they are working OK.

Probably a relay of some sort in there for something else.

Clicking is the relay switching on and off and smoke is not good.

Has anything else stopped working, wipers rear wipers, hazard lights, alarm, high beam, check everything

I would be doing as mud has said, pull the covers off & go for a drive, oh & make sure u have a fire extinguisher in the car, if that relay sticks shut due to the short (melt the contacts together) you will have a fire...

Another way to do it is to pull the fuze for the wipers & go for a drive then do the same again with the horn fuze. I would not do the same for the indicators though. Process of Elimination...

oh & another thing becareful if the cars got a air bag if its some thing to do with the slip ring it can go off in your face all the bags need to be set off is a spark...

I know some people will say u can not set a air bag off with out being in a smash, wrong if u get a power supply to the detonator, bang bag deployed...

oh & another thing becareful if the cars got a air bag if its some thing to do with the slip ring it can go off in your face all the bags need to be set off is a spark...

I know some people will say u can not set a air bag off with out being in a smash, wrong if u get a power supply to the detonator, bang bag deployed...

he said he has a nardi wheel, doubt it would have an airbag. anyway... soldier on.

yer, no airbag

its a hard one to diagnose, as on any given day, it will be fine

then the next not

as for the smoke, its even rarer, only happens everynow and then (last time was driving down the coast to the bdo, and there was a fair bit of smoke)

ill test everything tonite to make sure everything is working, but it was all working last time i checked

I have had this about a year ago and fixed it by replacing the indicator stalk. (I know what you mean about it driving you craaazzzzy)

When I inspected the old one it had blackened areas where you could see tracking and arcing (it looks like a pretty complex switching arrangement).

El Bee

My indicators have also recently just started to click sometimes randomly but mostly only when i indicate right and the indicator is then turned off, it keeps clicking alot faster.

I've got a mate who's a auto electrican thats fixing mine.

Anyone interested in getting theirs fixed, let me know and he might do yours for you's as well.

mate, ive just sent you a pm;

lunchtime today there was a lot of smoke and a bad smell (as well as the clICK CLICK CLIKC CLICK CLICKC LICKC LCIK)

im gonna go get some quotes saturday morning from local auto electric places also;

bloody money pits!

i had this problem, fixed it by changing whole indicator and light switchs. Got the part from a wrecker for arounf $100, easy to do, take off steering wheel, few screws, unhook some wires, change over then put it all back together and your done. I looked fixing mine to sell but its just all metal slides etc, wouldnt know where to start!

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...