Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok i was giving my R32 GTR a bit of a flog (as you do)

just come out of one corner and heading to the next and was about 5k in 3rd

then POP (a jolt of deceleration) so as you do you go into What The F@%K mode

then after that i find it still idles the same and drives the same until.....

about 3k (where boost usually is) and it begins to sorta cough and pretty much wont rev any higher

i am yet to pull off the exhuast to look for remains of turbo in cat (as it happened JUST now)

just want to make sure that it sounds like my turbo and i havent done any Major damage

and i have done a search and couldnt find anything is anyone else finding the search not really doing it job anymore?

Well Damn!!! ....but it looks like its could be time for some GT-SS's

Thanks

RellikZephyr

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105201-did-i-blow-my-turbo/
Share on other sites

pop and then coughing and spluttering, are you sure the plugs are on the air flow meters firmly, done that one before, car went into safety mode over a speed bump when the plug fell out, wouldnt rev over 3k lol...

having said that, i have also blown 2 turbos, tap the cat and see if there is a rattle like noise, also mine backfiered heaps when i blew the seal in one of the turbos, then no boost when i blew the wheel off the other one :P

Edited by oRiCLe

you guys are absolute CHAMPIONS!!

i didnt even think off intercooler hoses

and it was an intercooler hose passenger side on cooler to be precise

Thanks a bunch you guys i was shittin!!

Champions Thanks again

RellikZephyr

I would check your AFM too. When I had a VL (dont hold it against me :) ) The same thing happened. It made a really load pop (i found out later it was just a huge backfire) and after that point the car would get to 2000rpm and not go any higher. Changed the air flow meter and it was good as gold.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...