Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Experts!

An opportunity has arrived to purchase an OZ delivered 1991 BNR32 GTR. It has 70,000Ks, no mods and driven carefully by the original owner.

I’m presently driving a 170atwkw 98 WRX at the moment. What would I expect from this car and how many gorillas should I depart with?

Any help much appreciated.

TIA

Jol

Edited by JoL
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105662-how-much-is-a-oz-del-91-gtr-worth/
Share on other sites

Experts!

An opportunity has arrived to purchase a OZ delivered 1991 BNR32 GTR.  It has 70,000Ks, no mods and driven carefully by the original owner.

I’m presently driving a 170atwkw 98 WRX at the moment.  What would I expect from this car and how many gorillas should I depart with?

Any help much appreciated.

TIA

Jol

If you decide not to buy it can you please forward sellers details as im interested.

I have a stock aus delivered GTR. Bought it with 108k 2.5 years ago for $31k. Added power FC, exhaust (front pipe back), bigger injectors, boost controller (run 1 bar) and it makes 227kw at all 4 wheels / 252kw at the rear wheels.

The car your looking at sounds very tidy, any pics?

I have a stock aus delivered GTR. Bought it with 108k 2.5 years ago for $31k. Added power FC, exhaust (front pipe back), bigger injectors, boost controller (run 1 bar) and it makes 227kw at all 4 wheels / 252kw at the rear wheels.

The car your looking at sounds very tidy, any pics?

Thanks for the reply "gtr fan". Pretty much want to keep it stock but maybe wheels, suspension and a brake upgrade for track work. When I see the car I will take pics and post them here.

Thanks again.

PS Did you replace the turbos?

No offence guys but I think you're off your f'n rocker modifying a "genuine" AUS delivered GT-R !!! All you could possibly do is decrease the true value of a collectable car. Why not just grab a must cheaper Jap import and mod the crap out of "it" instead ? Just my opinion ( but a strong one ).

FYI, about a year ago I was offered the purchase of Mark Skaife's personal Marone R32 GT-R V-Spec. The only reason I bring this up is that the price offered to me was $36K. It was of course immaculate and only had 17,000km on it with all the bells and whistles ( and of course, Mark Skaife's autograph on the coil cover ). I believe it sold for something like $38K.

No offence guys but I think you're off your f'n rocker modifying a "genuine" AUS delivered GT-R !!! All you could possibly do is decrease the true value of a collectable car. Why not just grab a must cheaper Jap import and mod the crap out of "it" instead ? Just my opinion ( but a strong one ).

FYI, about a year ago I was offered the purchase of Mark Skaife's personal Marone R32 GT-R V-Spec. The only reason I bring this up is that the price offered to me was $36K. It was of course immaculate and only had 17,000km on it with all the bells and whistles ( and of course, Mark Skaife's autograph on the coil cover ). I believe it sold for something like $38K.

I will keep all the original parts. Whats the problem with changing the suspension and wheels for light track work?

Edited by JoL

I think the price on these is going to keep rising as the 'rare' nature of them comes out.

There is also nothing wrong with doing the usual mods to them, considering returning it to standard is very easy and very cheap to do. The parts you change/upgrade aren't exclusive to the australian version.

Consider that there were only ever 50 of these made/sold. I remember hearing there was 100 and then I came across a dealer listing of all the 50 chassis numbers (which I have posted on my for sale thread on my sig below). Its a PDF doc, that every good skyline owner should keep so go ahead and download :)

There are quite alot of parts that are different on the Australian ones.That Document mentions only some and its quite a list.

It would be very easy to tell if its a genuine Aussie one just by cross refference to that PDF doc. The ariel in the roof is a giveaway as are the indicators on the sides of the fron guards and the nissan hamburger badge on the bonnet.

I have still got the leather bound manual and 'how to drive your GTR' booklet by richards and skaife.

I am selling mine for $28,000 ono and it's not real tidy to be honest and done almost 250,000kms.

I will keep all the original parts. Whats the problem with changing the suspension and wheels for light track work?

Fair enough to mod the car with minor bolt-on replacement parts ( that you can swap back to stock later ) but I'm talking about changes to the actual / original car & engine etc. I would be looking for the most original GT-R if I was searching for an Aus delivered.

Well changing turbos, suspension, brakes etc are all fine not so noticeable mods and ......turbos ware out (why would you put stock ones back on), same with shocks.

Replacing worn out parts with OEM parts, is what retains the value of a collectible car. It's as simple as that :P

A guy I know in Melbourne owns a genuine D Type Jaguar in concourse condition and it has all genuine Jaguar parts fitted. He gets call after call with big $ offers because the car is so original.

Consider that there were only ever 50 of these made/sold. I remember hearing there was 100 and then I came across a dealer listing of all the  50 chassis numbers

Don't mean to sound like a knob but page 1 of the Australian Specification.pdf states that there were 50 units built 5/91 and another 50 built 8/91.

edit: It also makes no mention of a twin-plate clutch being fitted to Aus spec cars. :)

Don't mean to sound like a knob but page 1 of the Australian Specification.pdf states that there were 50 units built 5/91 and another 50 built 8/91.

edit: It also makes no mention of a twin-plate clutch being fitted to Aus spec cars.  :)

You are right, 100 total imported and sold by Nissan Oz to meet the then Group A homologation regs. To say anything else is just wrong and misleading.

I'll have to check about the twin plate clutch, but I don't believe that is the case.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving. 
    • What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...