Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

dont worry about it SUGO, the horn can be fixed quite easily. I think most likely just a fuse, or bad connection somewhere.

Now, your headlight problem may be a blown bulb. You can get both things checked out at the same time. I would take the car to a shop and get both things fixed.

Are you living in Australia?

I wish these where the only problems I experience.

If you take it to a shop it won't cost much.... or it would cost even less if you did it yourself.... probably take up 10-15 minutes of your time to fix...

hhmmmm,,, i have a lot you teach you my disciple,, i mean fellow r34'er ,,hahaha

i'll answer as many questions for ya as possible,, when i see u,,,

,, as for gear change,, I give you permission to change gear when ever you want,, lol ,,, u'll get the hang of it soon enough,,,, :P

i live in brisbane!

Explains the problem with english :P

This thread is obviously a wind up and not a bad effort either.

when do you change gear?

when old gear becomes dirty ofcourse!!

Yeah this thread needs to be closed....ADMIN??? This joker aint worth the forums space!

Seriously....

Q - 'when do i change gear'???

A - When u learn to F&*king drive!

Rant End :P

Edited by R33Deviat

hahha yeah i thought it was a joke at the start but wasn't sure. I'm starting to think you've bought a lemon of a car mate, what with all these horn and light problems. Maybe the best thing to do would be torch the car and buy a new one...

Good luck.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
    • Hi @Chupapy i had several leaks from coolant pipes being corroded, i also had one leak on back of the head onto transmission. For me that leak was from the turbo water line. Follow the line to the back of the head The hose and metal pipe had perished these are the best pics I took of it at the time
×
×
  • Create New...