Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey ppl. just looking at getting some cams for my skyline. (r34GTT). just wondering what cam best suits my application? ive searched the forums already and come up with not much at all. Bass junky advised on the Tomei pon cam type A. just wanted other opinions on this and if cam gears would be neccessary or a good addition?both IN and EX? and also good upgraded set of brake pads.

my car currently has Turbo back exhaust, ARC front mount, when cams are bought ARC airbox/ shroud will be coming also, power FC, profec B spec II(for sale if anyone's interested) and will probably be high flowing standard turbine rather then upgrading.

Any info will be greately appreciated.

cheers

Maurice

Edited by ssslpr
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106136-advice-on-cam-selection-for-r34gtt/
Share on other sites

Don't bother with cams unless/until you are upgrading the turbo.

The Tomei Poncam type B 260/260 are the best for my money although I don't know anyone with an R34 and the Type A. Put it this way, they don't destroy your idle or reduce driveability much so why not go as big as possible?

They are still street cams when it comes down to it, Tomei make the Procams for more full on situations.

I have 255 rwkw with a GCG highflow at 0.9 bar and these cams.

I don't think the cam gears are worth getting although if you want you can sacrifice some idle smoothness for early boost with stock turbo. I think this would equate to top end losses with bigger turbo.

i was told that the type A with a standard highflowed turbo woudl result in better response rather than the larger 260 which is more suited to an upgraded. i was told i would get the same power with these cames and highflow turbo?? hmmmm. sounds like more resaerch is needed. what about other brands?? anyone have any testimonials or heard anythign about other brands??

thanks for the input ABO.

Don't do that.  They don't help R34's.  It's been tested and proven.

What about R33s?

Been thinking about replacing my gears when I do the timing belt.

Edit: did search, found info :D

Well installation won't be an issue.... so it's just the cost of the part + delivery for me :P

Question for Bass and Abo; on a scale of 10, how would you rate this upgrade in terms of bang for buck? I know both of you probably did a whole lot of other stuff at the same time, but give it your best opinion

Cheers guys

S

I have very similar mods to Bass Junky too except for cams. Made 226rwkw on the initial tune, now making about 10-15rwkw more with boost control kit and Z32 AFM, call it 235-240rwkw.

Cams will be the next step for me, but they certainly weren't a priority. 10rwkw is probably a good "figure".

It's not just the extra 10kw.

I'm making over 240 rwkw for over 1500rpm.

It's a big fatr curve.

The stock cams fall over at 6000rpm.

the poncams are on song at 4500 right through to 8000.

See how flat the torque curve is?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • We have a huge update coming in the next few months, version 5 of Invision will be released. I'm holding off any changes until after this change as I'm not sure what features will be removed or introduced.
    • Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...