Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello fellow rb enthusiasts,

I just purchased my very first skyline... a 1994 r32 GTR...

skyline.jpg

She's currently sporting Hasemi Wheels (no idea what version), Hasemi bucket seat, HKS turbo timer, HKS boost controller, 5zigen catback, S.S. downpipe, earl's s.s. braided brake lines, unknown aftermarket steering wheel... maybe a few other goodies that I haven't discovered yet...

Oh yeah by the way... I live in the US....

I'm looking for a new catback... must be fully stainless steel or titanium.... I was wondering what you guys recommended as far as quality goes... I've been looking at Apexi GT spec (the huge catback).....

I was also curious where i could find some Vspec brembo brakes for the front and back...

Also looking into replacing the catalytic converter with a 3" test pipe... curious to know if the factory O2 sensor would be affected if it was fitted into a test pipe

Basically any other words of wisdom you can offer and where to begin upgrading the car.... this is going to be a Street car with occasional track usage... I've searched and I'm still searching as we speak... I'd just like to introduce myself and my car and say it's a pleasure to join you guys and I'll be driving a skyline for the rest of my life!

CHeers

Andrew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106285-my-first-skyline-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites

Guest Mashrock

Niice one andrew

i saw a 34gtr last time i was in cali. but never seen another gtr while i was there at all!

do u have to get that converted to left hand drive at all? or is this car not to be street regestered??

so your after a driveable gtr which will smash almost everything at the track??

the n1 turbos off the 34gtr are usually a good upgrade, from what has been said on here there are two different types.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...pic=105432&st=0 that thread should give you some insight on that front.

as for the rest of it. whats your budget like? what do you want to throw at this car?

do you want to open the engine up for pistons etc etc?

very very nice mate. also have GTR in aus. i understand u gotta kill a man to get a GTR in the US.. congrats.. blwo the socks off them chevs and mustangs.

just wondering.. what ECU should i use on my RB26DETT i want to deal away with AFM's an d run a single turbo.? any ideas?

Hi Andrew

The O2 sensors are actually fitted to the dump pipes and the sensor attached near the catalytic converter is actually an exhaust temp sensor. It doesn't seem to be terribly useful though as it only indicates "HOT" (indicated by red dash light like the e-brake) or "OK" (no light).

A lot of guys cut it off or a little tidier way would be to just tuck it into the chassis rail and tape it in. Alternatively, you could tap a thread into your test pipe and refit the sensor?

:unsure:

Guest Mashrock
very very nice mate. also have GTR in aus. i understand u gotta kill a man to get a GTR in the US.. congrats.. blwo the socks off them chevs and mustangs.

just wondering.. what ECU should i use on my RB26DETT i want to deal away with AFM's an d run a single turbo.? any ideas?

the power fc d-jetro? i think its spelt. that runs without afm,

or hks fcon but not many people here to tune that.

other locally ones i would guess autronic etc etc. but i dont know anything about them

Very nice car mate!!

if i can give some advice dont go near a track day unless you have a modified sump or some sort of upgrade to lubrication system, especially if you are on semi slicks or modifed power.

it will only end in a dead engine if you do.

cheers Russ

any more pics hehe

yes power FC de jetro. u have to run an extra map sensor off cyl 3-4

ive found one with sensor for $1400 but problem is not many shops in aust tune it well.. its a big ask. looking at 2000 tunned and running.

R32s have bad oil management!.. its sad.. a sump baffle will fix it.. an oil cooler with remote filter will help fix it to. have more oil 7.5L upwards and ur winning the war against ur golden syrup slopping around.

  • 1 month later...
just wondering zinkrb250 do many people in the states knw wat ur godzilla is? hope the cops dont.

think bout punching ur cat out.. im going to.

wher did ur bonnet grill go? and u get a Vspec..? (vspec frnt bar)

Nahh not a lot of people know what it is... the tuner people know... but not the ordinary joes ... all they see is me on the wrong side of the car and have to look twice to make sure that's what they saw.. I've passed plenty of cops so far and no problems with them yet...

Right now i'm looking into getting a 3.5 or 4" catback and hopefully find a test pipe that is bigger than 3"

I've got the bonnet grill... it just wasn't in place when the pictures were taken...

And about the vspec i'm pretty sure it is not a vspec....reason being is because it doesn't have the brembo brakes

So far i've found the car has a little lip on the hood (just above the bonnet grill)... a boot lip on the trunk... no emblems except for GTR on the back and the GT on the fenders... it's got an oil cooler (which i don't think came factory)... earl's stainless steel brake lines, some unknown brand of stainless steel front pipes, an unknown 5zigen catback, an unknown aftermarket steering wheel, hasemi bucket seat, it had hasemi wheels until i swapped those for my 17x9 5zigen fno1rc (bronze), it's got an HKS panel filter, a blitz boost gauge, hks turbo timer, hks boost controller, apexi n1 coilovers, nismo A arms i think... i don't know i was under it and found a bracket that said nismo located on both of the front wheel wells, it had nismo spark plugs until i changed them out cause it was stuttering at higher boost levels... so far that's all i can think of off of the top of my head

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...