Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hay guys my farther has a R33 GTR in which a work shop has told us that the 4 wheel drive system is not working and says it needs a rebuild.

when driving and lunching the gauge on the tork split does not move

can anyone tell us y this would be the case it only has 250awkw and is not drivin hard.

and what do you thikn it would cost to be completed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106546-r33-gtr-4-wheel-drive-not-working/
Share on other sites

hi

is there any dash lights coming on.

could be hydraulic pump issue, i would be surprised if the 4wd system needed rebuilding.

you should get a second opinion from a recommended repairer from someone on this forum from victoria,

russ

The gauge should work even if the clutch packs in the attesa were stuffed. The gauge doesn't show how much is going to the front wheels, it shows how muchs the computer wants to feed to the front wheels.... (as far as i know anyway)...

Is the 4wd dash light coming on? Usually thats the first thing to light up when there is a problem (low on fluid etc...)

Does it drive like a rwd? ie with 250rwkw it would break traction pretty easy if it was in rwd, where as in awd 250rwkw would be much harder to break traction...

has the car been run with different size front and rear wheels? this will cook your clutches pretty quick as the front wheel drive isn't designed to be on all the time. if the attessa fluid level is ok and you drive the car sensibly I can't see how you can break it.

If the clutches are gone you will be always in rear wheel drive and I think the same would also happen if the fluid level was low and the system couldn't lock up the clutches so you would be getting a fair bit of wheel spin when you do start accelerating harder if either of these were the case.

It could just be gauge/attessa computer related if you are having no wheel spinning problems. Has anyone played with the attessa unit under the rear parcel shelf?, one is the rear speaker amp, and the other is the attessa computer.

hope this has been of some help.

Stephen

thanks people for you thoughts

we tryed bleeding the system get the air out but nothing happend.

we checked all the voltages and it seemed all ok.

so its going to another workshop to be looked atit

AFAIK the gauge is what the ECU wants to send to the front wheels.

To me it just sounds like the gauge is broken.

Here are a few things to see if the 4wd works

- Try a big hard clutch dumping launch, then check the tyre marks

- Put the car on a hoist and run it, all 4 wheels turn? Then its working somewhat

- Put the car on a 4wd dyno and turn the tractive effort up to see if the fronts stop and rears keep going (aka, transfer case is broken)

They are probably the best methods i can think of

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Skyline R33 Series 2 sedan tail lights in excellent condition. These are becoming harder to find, especially in this state.    BOTH SETS ARE IN FANTASTIC CONDITION (REFER TO PHOTOS)    ✅ No broken covers or cracks ✅ Lenses are in flawless condition ✅ All rear mounting lugs intact ✅ Comes complete as pictured ✅ Perfect for restoration, replacement, or upgrade   These lights are ready to go, no surprises just quality OEM parts.   These are definitely one of the better sets we have seen in a while. With minimal wear and tear they will come as you see. Bear in mind they are not brand new they are almost 30 years old now. To find them in this condition isn’t easy they can only be obtained on the second hand market.   Australia Wide Postage Available At Buyers Expense. Silver Set:$850 Grey Set:$850 PM Me for purchase or any other questions  IMG_2166.dng IMG_2165.dng IMG_2172.dng IMG_2173.dng IMG_2174.dng IMG_2179.dng IMG_2180.dng IMG_2260.dng IMG_2258.dng IMG_2259.dng IMG_2261.dng IMG_2266.dng IMG_2273.dng IMG_2274.dng IMG_2276.dng
    • Unsolicited advice? Keep the engine as close to stock as you can. Nothing wrong with adding some boost and making a little more power, but given where you are, you really don't want to try to make it into a monster. I can't imagine the roads are up to it, and the lack of locla support when it grenades will be a ball ache. FWIW, If there is a dyno around that you can access, then brand new injectors are a good idea, which will lead you to (at least) putting a Nistune in it, which will allow you to put an R35 AFM on it, all of which will make it possible to make it much much nicer to drive and live with.
    • List all of your mods. It sounds like an aftermarket ECU hitting rev limiter. Like a valet mode, or a cold rpm limiter? 
    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
×
×
  • Create New...