Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hows it going guys.............yeah, ive seen one up close, lol i got one in my garage.......set me back about 74000 and as you all know yes it is NA producing 206Kw

From what i have seen so far, i think this thing will launch.......im still running the engine in, has only 650 k's on the clock, and she's going hard already (and i havent really gone over 3000 revs)...........!

As far as the shape is concerned, yeah, alot of my mates said that they didnt like it when they saw pictures, but trust me when i say, they all dropped their jaws when they saw it, and all the ones who didnt like it admitted that it looks porno in real life.

Anyhow, im dying to get some more km's on her so that i can really open her up and see what she can do.......will be fun i think

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10692-350z/#findComment-172650
Share on other sites

Robo, the 350Z puts down approx 167rwkw and its approx 1400 -1450 kg kerb weight. Further more, the weight distribution is 53/47, which i was told by the dealer evens out to 50/50 under acceleration (could be bullshit, you know how sales ppl are lol).

Ed, thats a good point, but i bought the 350Z for its curves.......i think they car looks hot, and ppl turn their heads when i go past, (besides, a couple of my mates have skylines, i wanted to be different)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10692-350z/#findComment-173213
Share on other sites

Congrats on the purchase MR350Z, $74k? i thought it was like $69K for the Track spec one? spose with extra's tho.....

anyways, sounds like a good match for the R34 GT-T: 1410kg with 206 also, sounds very even to me.

i reckon look like pretty l337 ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10692-350z/#findComment-173260
Share on other sites

Guest neoGT-25

aparently the normal one starts at $59,990 and track spec starts at $64,990 and i went and sat in both and :D PWOOAR!

the trac spec has the brembo breaks of the GT-R and they already have a 10" sub behind the drivers seat not to mention the full BOSE stereo system... my dad was looking at getting a S2000 but when we went and saw the 350Z... yeh you can guess his opinion now ;)

bye all

PS: MR350Z, enjoy!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10692-350z/#findComment-173302
Share on other sites

nice buy MR350Z! ;)

the dealer is telling the truth. it is 53/47. (from best motoring international DVD).

only things i dont like about the 350z are the door handles and the tyres (they could be fatter)... other than that, its a very nice car.

Originally posted by MR350Z

Robo, the 350Z puts down approx 167rwkw and its approx 1400 -1450 kg kerb weight. Further more, the weight distribution is 53/47, which i was told by the dealer evens out to 50/50 under acceleration (could be bullshit, you know how sales ppl are lol).  

Ed, thats a good point, but i bought the 350Z for its curves.......i think they car looks hot, and ppl turn their heads when i go past, (besides, a couple of my mates have skylines, i wanted to be different)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10692-350z/#findComment-173503
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...