Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HKS T04R. $500 (needs bearings replaced) or $990 Fully Rebuilt by Garret or GCG in Sydney.

So if you are interested, you can buy it as is for $500, or fully rebuilt for $990. The choice is yours.

This turbo is good for around 600HP and is a great turbo for almost any application.

I also have a brand new stainless steel RB20/RB25 turbo manifold, never used, only $450.

Both the turbo and manifold are available now and wont last long, be quick first in to pay gets them.

post-23178-1141134717.gif

Sorry, i just replied to your pm about 5 minutes ago.

Here is a picture of the turbo, I forgot to mention it has a highly polished compressor housing, looks spectacular. As you can see, the manifold is brand new, polished, and looks great too.

Its not the best picture, but you can see the how good the quality of the manifold is, and how good the turbo looks.

Ok, here is the deal, I need to pay some bills tomorrow and I am flat broke, I think I have sold the manifold (waiting for payment) but the HKS T04R is still 100% available.

I will REDUCE the price of the HKS TO4R Turbo to only $400 if you can pay TONIGHT or before 11am tomorrow. Once off price of $400 for this turbo, need to sell it !!!! I will be online all night and will check back before i go to work in the morning. I need cash, someone might get a bargain tonight.

quicknissan.

If it turns out two people pay for the turbo then an immediate refund will be sent tommorow. This is a genuine sale, and I am not here to rip anyone off. So, i will check my bank account tomorrow and if more than one person payed it will be transferred back immediatly.

So, Turbo is sold pending payment, as is sold pending payment. I will reply here after work tomorrow with details.

quicknissan.

Looks like you'll be getting your cash back nismo33 - just spoke to him via sms and cause both manifold and turbo where purchased as a package - he can't really seperate...

Sorry mate.

I *do* however have a trust td06-17c here which was *going* to go on my car if you like? Bought less then a month ago, as a 'just recon'd, never used' turbo. So if you keen on that, give me a pm. Little bit more expensive then this one(not to much more), though, it's in perfect condition.

Ta.

Chris.

just spoke to the bank and managed to cancel the transfer,.. its all good now,. no worries.

thanks for the offer 510WW but im sort of looking for sumthin bigger than td06,.. if it were a td07 20g i might consider..its going in a supra.

thanks anyhow.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...