Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25det Missing After Degreasing Engine Bay

Chegs

By Chegs,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Chegs Contributor

Chegs

Posted
Posted

HELP!! I washed the engine bay today and when i started it later on the engine is missing like a bitch. There is no water in the intake line cuz i checked it before i started it. My guess is there is water in the coil packs or is there maybe something else causing it?? HELP

Thanks, chegs

RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted

Have you checked the coilpacks? If not, they could be floating in water for all you know? =-]

Remove the coil-pack cover, and let it dry in the hot hot sun for a while =-]

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

Yep the whole ignition section through the guts will be full of water. Let it dry or get some compressed air and blow it all out until it dries thats probably the quickest way or try and soak it up with some rags. I find compressed air works quick smart.

Paradizzle Grand Master

Paradizzle

Posted
Posted

So when everyone degreases/cleans their engine bays what do they cover up? what are the vital bits not to get wet and prevent the engine from misfiring like mentioned above?

Can anyone provide a pic and highlight areas?

Cheers.

RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted

Yerp... I use rags or kitchen paper, with degreaser or Kitten interior cleaner, and it works a treat. I might use the sponge and leftover carwash in the bucket to do the tops of the headlights, radiator support, radiator and cam-cover, but keep water away from your injectors, coil packs and fusebox.

If you can remove it to clean it, do it!

I remove the air filter housing, top of the fuse-box, and the coil pack cover if I could be assed removing the intake pipe etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      INTRODUCTION

      By PranK · Posted

      Hi Apex and welcome! 
    • Sydneykid
      Alcon TA6 Calipers on R33 GTST - Flexing

      By Sydneykid · Posted

      Probably too late to reply to this, but worth a try. It's not calliper flex, the calliper as a whole is moving so it has to be calliper mounting bracket flex.  Calliper mounting brackets are designed to stop the calliper rotating, they don't need to be designed heavy duty to stop the calliper moving in and out.  Whatever it is is not the major cause of poor pedal feel, the outer pistons are moving towards the disc rotor the same amount as the inner pistons are moving away from the disc rotor.  Hence no change in fluid usage, what extra fluid is needed to move the outer pistons is recovered from the inner pistons. For a calliper to move as a whole by far the most common reason is the rotor is not perfectly centred in the calliper.  The first thing I check is that hub face is perfectly clean, bare metal, where the rotor hats contacts it.  Then I check the that rotor is firmly held in place by at least 3 wheel nuts (or equivalent). If all of the above are confirmed to be in perfect alignment then I would check the piston sizes and ensure that the 3 inner pistons and 3 outer pistons have matching diameters (eg; 28/32/36mm).  I have seen a no name 4 spot calliper that had 1 of the 4 pistons a different diameter. Maybe I missed it, are both the callipers exhibiting the same problem? I would remove the transfer pipe and inspect it to make sure that there are no restrictions. Maybe you already have but if not I would return them with the video and have them confirm all of the above.   Hope that helps Cheers Gary    
    • Sydneykid
      Replica built of first Gibson R32 chassis

      By Sydneykid · Posted

      If you have the original log book and it didn't have a chassis number quoted, then no money required.  I have "rechassied" a number of race cars, no problem as long as you have the original log book.   Cheers Gary
    • robbo_rb180
      Rob's S Chassis track cars. Now with more s15 and less 180sx

      By robbo_rb180 · Posted

      Yeah was planned, cheers.
    • Yeetus
      Question about BoV on RB25DET NEO

      By Yeetus · Posted

      Well the good news is that it won't run any worse with an atmo bov than it does with no bov, I've owned a few Nissans over the years (r32, s15 and now r33), the stalling issue caused by a bov or no bov while still having an afm is easy enough to live with, most people get used to driving them and just feathering the throttle when you come to a stop to avoid it stalling. Changing to a proper ecu with a map sensor is ideal but in the short term I'd just slap in the bov if you really want the whoosh sound. I looked into the pass through type maf like the R35 one above but decided against it as the amount of oil and crap flowing through the hot side would mean you'd have to clean it often to keep it working.
×
×
  • Create New...