Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

had a problem with car pinging on deceleration. just had a power fc installed and tuned on a dyno. i've had a look at my tps (throttle position sensor) and noticed it has a blank plug connected to it and 3 wires coming out underneath it. is this normal or should the plug on the side of it be connected to something. i think the computer is having trouble with the amount of fuel to put into the motor after heavy boost thus car is leaning out cos it doesn't know where the throotle is at. any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107333-pinging-tps-problem-help/
Share on other sites

post-26381-1140930025.jpghere is a picture of my tps. the plug on the side is blank ie. not connected to anything. i don't think this is normal and is causing my problem. my tuner has given my fuel pump constant power because he's 'waiting on a part from japan' and said there was a problem but is ok to drive. he's pretty reputable in adelaide but i think they've either killed the wiring somehow and need to replace it or i have no idea. no connection to my computer from the side plug would not give a throttle position reading? am i correct? i'm a relatively newbie to skylines and think my tuner is taking me for a ride.

I think you need to check out exactly when it is pinging.

If its pinging on deceleration (when there is a fuel cut i.e ZERO fuel) then there's issues some where else other than fuel.

If its pinging as you take your foot off then its possible your injectors are a little dirty OR the ign. map needs a little fiddling in the cells above the wot cells.

I.e say your wot uses load point 15-16. When you pull your foot off it will quickly pass through 14, 13, 12 etc.. That fraction of a second there still load on the motor as your foot is still on the throttle.

The lesser load points may need a little ign. timing removed in order to prevent slight ping.

This is rather hard to replicate on the dyno so its really up to you or the dyno tuner to take it for a spin around the block.

I wouldn't be happy if this happened and I had paid 500-600 for a tune.

If you paid 100-200 then its to be expected as obviously its had a good but quick tune that isn't as comprehensive as a 500-600 tune.

That TPS needs to be fixed as it only adds to the equation.

Drift_R33,

Are you receiving detonation from low rpm high load?

i.e rolling out of a corner in second, third or even fourth gear at 1000rpm then holding it flat.

Chances are the tuner hasn't loaded the car up enough at such a low rpm as its uncommon to be driven in such a way. I have/had this issue. :P

A -1 degrees from the 1600 zone fixed it up.

tuned at morpowa. did pay around 500-600 mark for tuning. if you look at the picture of the tps, should that plug on the right side of it be connected to something? i believe it should be giving a signal to the computer of which position the throttle is at. if its not doing this, could that cause my problem. thanks for replying.

i've only just bought the car and got the pfc and boost controller fitted straight away. got fmic, forgies, metal head gasket, 3" turbo back, e-boost 2 9,12 & 14.5psi, air filter etc. the problem occurs ater boosting and i take my foot off of the accelerator and continue to roll. i also get fluctuating idle rpm sometimes, high idle when stopping then it gradually comes down to about 700rpm. had no problem b4 pfc fitting? i have no idea where wires are. can't speak to morpowa until monday. only got car back. apparently they had problems fitting my pfc and had it a few extra days. i think they killed the wires somehow and are now waiting for replacement wiring. sounds fishy too me. anyone had problems with morpowa?

Morpowa are fine. :P

I'm unsure why they would have had problems fitting the pfc as they are a plug in.

With the idling issue that comes down to setup.

You really need have it idling, remove the aac plug and set the idle via the screw to as close but not over the idle setting in the pfc.

Then init the pfc, reload the tuned maps, connect back up the aac and send it through its idle learn proceedure.

Doing the above I have a 100% stable idle all the time every time.

i've heard a lot of good things about morpowa. i think i'll ring em tomorrow and find out what's going on. i just wanna boost hard. that's why i bought it. i hate having problems with cars. why would those wires be missing? i can't figure it out.

could idling issues be related to tps not being connected properly. timing is all over the place at the moment. goes from 20deg to max 45 deg. i think the signal from tps is not being received by computer as there are no connecting wires. thanks for your input. any idea of a good turbo upgrade. looking at a trust t51

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
    • Stop looking at the garage floor, and turn the radio up a bit louder if there's any strange noises...
    • No. Turbo shuffle and surge/flutter are not the same thing. Specifically, on a GTR, turbo shuffle has a definite meaning. On a GTR, the twin turbos are assumed to be the same thing and to operate the same way, exactly. In reality, they do not. Their exhaust sides are fed and exhaust a little differently, to each other. Their inlet sides are fed and exhausted a little differently, to each other. Consequently, when they are "working" they are often at slightly different points on the compressor map compared to each other. What this means, particularly when coming on boost, is that one of them will spool up and start producing extra flow compared to the other, which will put back pressure on that other compressor, which will push the operating point on that other compressor up (vertically). This will generally result in it bumping up against the surge line on the map, but even if it doesn't, it upsets the compressor and you get this surging shuffle back and forth between them That is "turbo shuffle" on a GTR. It is related to other flutter effects heard on other turbo systems, but it is a particular feature of the somewhat crappy outlet piping arrangement on RB26s. There are plenty of mods that have been attempted with varying levels of success. People have ground out and/or welded more material into the twin turbo pipe to try to prevent it. Extending the divider inside it works, removing material doesn't. There are aftermarket replacement twin turbo pipes available, and these exist pretty mush purely because of this shuffle problem.
    • You can temporarily* use lock collars to keep it in place until you can do the bushes, back the nuts off, slide them in, snug back up. *temporarily is often for ever
    • Thanks for the quick reply. To be clear, when you say turbo shuffle do you mean turbo flutter "stustustu" or referring to something else? I had thought they were the same thing. When I wrote the post my intention was to say it wasn't a flutter/compression surge sound. My understanding was that a flutter sound would be occurring when throttle is released, whereas I can keep the throttle in the same position for this noise
×
×
  • Create New...