Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have a series2 rs four s manual and had it up on a hoist the other day sussing out the exhaust to be built, when noticed some oil around the top of the transmission casing, upon further investigation we found that there was not much oil left in the box as it had all blown out around the gear shift mechanism and up into the shift lever boot.

we removed and cleaned the boot etc resealed and tightened down everthing we could drained the remainder of the transmission oil and replaced it along with a slick50 treatment, we also blew out the breather hose with compressed air and replaced.

i was just wondering if this was something i need to watch for in future or would it be a once off perhaps?

oxford

i have a series2 rs four s manual and had it up on a hoist the other day sussing out the exhaust to be built, when noticed some oil around the top of the transmission casing, upon further investigation we found that there was not much oil left in the box as it had all blown out around the gear shift mechanism and up into the shift lever boot.

we removed and cleaned the boot etc resealed and tightened down everthing we could drained the remainder of the transmission oil and replaced it along with a slick50 treatment, we also blew out the breather hose with compressed air and replaced.

i was just wondering if this was something i need to watch for in future or would it be a once off perhaps?

oxford

hey mate, ive got a rb26 and gtr 5 speed gearbox and ive had the same problems, and do u mean your gearbox fluid is low or the transfer case? as the shifter is actually into the transfer case. mine was abit of a problem a couple of times i didnt have the gearstick boot on and planted it flatout on the freeway and it started spewing out like a volcano into the car over my seats/dash, etc. and it did it about 3 times or so. the local workshop told me its a usual thing, as usually the boot stops it coming out. but that shop i dont use anymore and wouldnt trust them at all.

i was thinking the fluid is getting too hot and boiling, but i highly doubt it. maybe just the g-forces from planting it forces the oil into the gears and causes it to spray/splash up.

also the fluid in the transfer case is ATF and totally seperate to the Atessa container fluid mounted in the boot.

let us know if u find answers :P

cheers

Brad

cant say i really know what the case is but i never really looked that hard into it as the hoist it was sittin on at the time is of the local skyline nut who jus happens to work at an exhaust place, he said he had not seen this problem other than when a breather hose is blocked, even though when he blew the hose clear there was nothing appearing to be obstructing it? as for the oil boiling i don think it would be that unless there are some real bad bearings and by that stage you would know there was a real problem.

also i dunno if there would be any difference between series one and seriestwo mine has the neo engine and its my first car with a hair dryer so don really know much bout em, i have always had bikes over cars and still do i jus wanted a nice wagon.

i will endeavour to find out as much as i can from local nutters an pm you if i find anything out.

cheers

oxford

cant say i really know what the case is but i never really looked that hard into it as the hoist it was sittin on at the time is of the local skyline nut who jus happens to work at an exhaust place, he said he had not seen this problem other than when a breather hose is blocked, even though when he blew the hose clear there was nothing appearing to be obstructing it? as for the oil boiling i don think it would be that unless there are some real bad bearings and by that stage you would know there was a real problem.

also i dunno if there would be any difference between series one and seriestwo mine has the neo engine and its my first car with a hair dryer so don really know much bout em, i have always had bikes over cars and still do i jus wanted a nice wagon.

i will endeavour to find out as much as i can from local nutters an pm you if i find anything out.

cheers

oxford

no worries, the gearbox is the same in series 2 stagea, 32/33gtr,260rs (and i think the gts4)

ill see how mine goes in the next couple of weeks as im finally getting it back on the road after the engine build which has taken over 7 months or so.

owned the car since november 04 and only done about 1200km in it since :(

the joys of car ownership and modifying em ;)

This can be common on the track when the rubber boot is split. Scotsman lost heaps at PI through here, but with ess aggressive driving would occur over a longer period with less residual.

Just replace the boot with a standard item from Nissan and you'll be fine.

This can be common on the track when the rubber boot is split. Scotsman lost heaps at PI through here, but with ess aggressive driving would occur over a longer period with less residual.

Just replace the boot with a standard item from Nissan and you'll be fine.

good to hear its normal, and just replaced the boot the other day actually. :yes:

thanks

Brad

k thanks guys i was wondering if there was aproblem with the box being pressurised but if you reckon its normal i can handle that but will still be keeping an eye on it just the same

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...