Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Gonna try to track down some R-compound tyres for the next hillclimb and future trackdays... was just wondering if anyone had any feedback about good/bad places to buy them from in Brisbane?

At this point (after searching) it's coming down to the Dunlop D01J or DZ02G, or Bridgestone RE55, or maybe some Yokos. I know you can pick up the Dunlops from Qld Raceway but just wanted to hear people's experiences etc.

The sizes I'm after are front: 235/45R17 and rear: 255/40R17 (or maybe 265/40).

Also I have no idea what compound to go for - the tyres will be doing the Mt Cotton hillclimb and trackdays at QR only (5 lap stints), I don't plan to use them on the street except to drive there and back.

Thanks :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107421-buying-semi-slick-tyres-in-brisbane/
Share on other sites

I've bought D02G's from Qld Raceway before - no problems at all. Previously ran the Bridgestone RE55's which I think (in my opinion only) may be a slightly superior. Bridgestones you can buy from Tyretech.

If you wanted a tyre specifically for hillclimbs, I would look at the Toyo Proxes (R compound) available at plenty of places (bought mine at Keith 4 wheels) Extraordinarily good in short sprint events. At QR, they start to go off by about lap 3 or 4 and become too "squidgy" but would be superb for hillclimbs.

Edited by maccattack

I got Dunlop DO1J on my street car, they're dot rated and I have been quizz in the past by the officers of the law, just point it out to them, that's all. I think D01j comes in 3 compounds soft/super soft/ chewing gum. just get the soft/or medium, as the chewing gum one only last about 1500-2000k on the street and alot less on the track. Very nice tyres , with plenty of grip/warning.

Cost to KMs, and wet weather would be two of the big ones.

Wet weather is no probs for semi's. It's the rubber compound, not the grooves that keep you stuck to the road. I've run semi's in the wet before with great traction. But you're right - cost per km is the killer.

Wet weather is no probs for semi's. It's the rubber compound, not the grooves that keep you stuck to the road. I've run semi's in the wet before with great traction. But you're right - cost per km is the killer.

Id debat the thing with the wet weather. I guess it would depend on the tread patter to some extent. Some cars I have been in with them on, bit of rain, bloody hell, never again.

Ive just fitted 235 and 255 on my GTR Falken Azenis RT215-fine in the rain last night(I have over 400hp at wheels)-they are DOT approved and George at Tyrepower at Albion did them cheap as and got them in one day.

Ive just fitted 235 and 255 on my GTR Falken Azenis RT215-fine in the rain last night(I have over 400hp at wheels)-they are DOT approved and George at Tyrepower at Albion did them cheap as and got them in one day.

Can I ask how muck "cheap as" is?

They were 18" right ???

No sorry 17's cause mine is a 32GTR-one key to light weight is going 17in -less unsprung weight unless youve got super lightweight 18in rims(then there can be strength issues)

$1300 fitted and balanced-He even lowered my coil overs to suit for nothing-best people to deal with.

Others in Bris were quoting over $1400 without fitting

Edited by overev1

the Azenis RT215 really isn't an R compound tyre. far too hard and lacks the outright grip of a true R compound. Better than a normal street tyre though and probably not a bad choice if you only have one set of rims, because they'll last alot longer than a proper R tyre on the street.

I've used the Azenis RT215, a Hankook Z2000 race tyre, Yoko A032R, and Bridgestone RE55S. The Azenis are about 1.5 to 2 sec slower at Mt Cotton than the proper R tyres.

Talk to Craig at Hornibrook Tyres. He's the cheapest around for motorsport tyres, and he'll look after club motorsport competitors because he is one himself! He's a regular at Mt Cotton and motorkhanas etc. Tell him Harry put you onto him.

5 Basalt Street,

Geebung QLD 4030

Phone 3865 1072

Mobile 0401 474 745

Wet weather is no probs for semi's. It's the rubber compound, not the grooves that keep you stuck to the road.

That is actually incorrect. The compound keeps you stuck to the road in the dry...the only thing the grooves are designed for is wet weather traction.

That is why drag tyres have no grooves, they don't race in the wet.

Probably it would be right to say that the grooves pump the water out in the wet so the tyre can make contact with the road. The compound is softer on R-Compound tyres so they do stick better in the wet. That's why wet weather tyres perrish in racing when the track drys out.

Talk to Craig at Hornibrook Tyres. He's the cheapest around for motorsport tyres, and he'll look after club motorsport competitors because he is one himself! He's a regular at Mt Cotton and motorkhanas etc. Tell him Harry put you onto him.

5 Basalt Street,

Geebung QLD 4030

Phone 3865 1072

Mobile 0401 474 745

I second this, just bought a full set from Craig, top bloke & good prices.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, Step 3, if you need to remove the valve body, either to replace it, the TCM, or to do a more complete drain.  First, you need to disconnect the TCM input wires, they are about half way up the transmission on the drivers side. One plug and the wires are out of the way, but there is also a spring clip that stops the socket from sliding back into the transmission. On my car the spring clip was easy to get, but the socket was really stuck in the o-ring of the transmission housing and took some.....persuasion. You can see both the plug to remove (first) and the spring clip (second) in this pic Incidentally, right next to the plug, you can see where the casting has allowance for a dispstick/filler which Nissan decided not to provide. there is a cap held on with a 6mm head bolt that you can remove to overfill it (AMS recommend a 1.5l overfill). Final step before the big mess, remove the speed sensor that is clipped to the valve body at the rear of the box.  Then removal of the Valve Body. For this the USDM Q50 workshop manual has a critical diagram: There are a billion bolts visible. Almost all of them do not need to be removed, just the 14 shown on the diagram. Even so, I both removed one extra, and didn't check which length bolt came from which location (more on that later....). Again it is worth undoing the 4 corners first, but leaving them a couple of turns in to hold the unit up....gravity is not your friend here and trans oil will be going everywhere. Once the corners are loose but still in remove all the other 10 bolts, then hold the valve body up with 1 hand while removing the final 4. Then, everything just comes free easily, or like in my case you start swearing because that plug is stuck in the casing. Done, the valve body and TCM are out
    • OK, so if you are either going for the bigger fluid change or are changing the valve body which includes the Transmission Control Module (TCM), first you should have both a new gasket 31397-1XJ0A and a torque wrench that can work down to 8Nm (very low, probably a 1/4 drive one). You can probably get by without either, but I really didn't want to pull it all apart together due to a leak. First, you now need that big oil pan. The transmission pan is 450 long x 350 wide, and it will probably leak on all sides, so get ready for a mess. There are 24x 6mm headed bolts holding the pan on. I undid the 2 rear corners, then screwed those bolts back in a couple of turns to let the pan go low at that end, then removed all the middle bolts on each side. Then, undo the front corner bolts slowly while holding the pan up, and 80% of the fluid will head out the rear. From there, remove the remaining bolts and the pan is off. You can see it is still dripping oil absolutely everywhere...it dripped all night.... I got another couple of litres when I removed the pan, and then another few when I removed the valve body - all up another 4l on top of the 3 already dropped in step 1.
    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
×
×
  • Create New...