Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Gonna try to track down some R-compound tyres for the next hillclimb and future trackdays... was just wondering if anyone had any feedback about good/bad places to buy them from in Brisbane?

At this point (after searching) it's coming down to the Dunlop D01J or DZ02G, or Bridgestone RE55, or maybe some Yokos. I know you can pick up the Dunlops from Qld Raceway but just wanted to hear people's experiences etc.

The sizes I'm after are front: 235/45R17 and rear: 255/40R17 (or maybe 265/40).

Also I have no idea what compound to go for - the tyres will be doing the Mt Cotton hillclimb and trackdays at QR only (5 lap stints), I don't plan to use them on the street except to drive there and back.

Thanks :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107421-buying-semi-slick-tyres-in-brisbane/
Share on other sites

I've bought D02G's from Qld Raceway before - no problems at all. Previously ran the Bridgestone RE55's which I think (in my opinion only) may be a slightly superior. Bridgestones you can buy from Tyretech.

If you wanted a tyre specifically for hillclimbs, I would look at the Toyo Proxes (R compound) available at plenty of places (bought mine at Keith 4 wheels) Extraordinarily good in short sprint events. At QR, they start to go off by about lap 3 or 4 and become too "squidgy" but would be superb for hillclimbs.

Edited by maccattack

I got Dunlop DO1J on my street car, they're dot rated and I have been quizz in the past by the officers of the law, just point it out to them, that's all. I think D01j comes in 3 compounds soft/super soft/ chewing gum. just get the soft/or medium, as the chewing gum one only last about 1500-2000k on the street and alot less on the track. Very nice tyres , with plenty of grip/warning.

Cost to KMs, and wet weather would be two of the big ones.

Wet weather is no probs for semi's. It's the rubber compound, not the grooves that keep you stuck to the road. I've run semi's in the wet before with great traction. But you're right - cost per km is the killer.

Wet weather is no probs for semi's. It's the rubber compound, not the grooves that keep you stuck to the road. I've run semi's in the wet before with great traction. But you're right - cost per km is the killer.

Id debat the thing with the wet weather. I guess it would depend on the tread patter to some extent. Some cars I have been in with them on, bit of rain, bloody hell, never again.

Ive just fitted 235 and 255 on my GTR Falken Azenis RT215-fine in the rain last night(I have over 400hp at wheels)-they are DOT approved and George at Tyrepower at Albion did them cheap as and got them in one day.

Ive just fitted 235 and 255 on my GTR Falken Azenis RT215-fine in the rain last night(I have over 400hp at wheels)-they are DOT approved and George at Tyrepower at Albion did them cheap as and got them in one day.

Can I ask how muck "cheap as" is?

They were 18" right ???

No sorry 17's cause mine is a 32GTR-one key to light weight is going 17in -less unsprung weight unless youve got super lightweight 18in rims(then there can be strength issues)

$1300 fitted and balanced-He even lowered my coil overs to suit for nothing-best people to deal with.

Others in Bris were quoting over $1400 without fitting

Edited by overev1

the Azenis RT215 really isn't an R compound tyre. far too hard and lacks the outright grip of a true R compound. Better than a normal street tyre though and probably not a bad choice if you only have one set of rims, because they'll last alot longer than a proper R tyre on the street.

I've used the Azenis RT215, a Hankook Z2000 race tyre, Yoko A032R, and Bridgestone RE55S. The Azenis are about 1.5 to 2 sec slower at Mt Cotton than the proper R tyres.

Talk to Craig at Hornibrook Tyres. He's the cheapest around for motorsport tyres, and he'll look after club motorsport competitors because he is one himself! He's a regular at Mt Cotton and motorkhanas etc. Tell him Harry put you onto him.

5 Basalt Street,

Geebung QLD 4030

Phone 3865 1072

Mobile 0401 474 745

Wet weather is no probs for semi's. It's the rubber compound, not the grooves that keep you stuck to the road.

That is actually incorrect. The compound keeps you stuck to the road in the dry...the only thing the grooves are designed for is wet weather traction.

That is why drag tyres have no grooves, they don't race in the wet.

Probably it would be right to say that the grooves pump the water out in the wet so the tyre can make contact with the road. The compound is softer on R-Compound tyres so they do stick better in the wet. That's why wet weather tyres perrish in racing when the track drys out.

Talk to Craig at Hornibrook Tyres. He's the cheapest around for motorsport tyres, and he'll look after club motorsport competitors because he is one himself! He's a regular at Mt Cotton and motorkhanas etc. Tell him Harry put you onto him.

5 Basalt Street,

Geebung QLD 4030

Phone 3865 1072

Mobile 0401 474 745

I second this, just bought a full set from Craig, top bloke & good prices.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
×
×
  • Create New...