Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

could set up a methanol injection system? watched them do it to a MR2 on one of the high octane vids. it detects when you go on boost and inserts it so it reduces pinging and detonation as "our fuels suck".

could set up a methanol injection system? watched them do it to a MR2 on one of the high octane vids. it detects when you go on boost and inserts it so it reduces pinging and detonation as "our fuels suck".

Sounds like an idea.

If you're going to "pre-mix" it (i.e. not use a separate injection system) that you don't just pour in a bit into the fuel nozzle when you fill up.

"Splash mixing" is not recommended by any of the manufacturers, as chances are it'll come up uneven and just f**k with your ECU's readouts even more.

Consistently bad fuel is just as good, if not better, for your engine than inconsistently good fuel.

Aren't alcohol and petrol different densities? Like oil an water... You might need to get an emlusifier to combine the 2... Anyway - methonol will corrode out metal parts that it comes into contact with, over time. should be good for small busts. I think the10% petrol you can get has anticorosives and all that in it...

Aren't alcohol and petrol different densities? Like oil an water...

Not density, polarity.

Water and alcohols have different densities, but they will dissolve into each other as the molecules are both polar (i.e. have a distinct magnetic field on either end of the molecule).

Hydrocarbons (like the octane in petrol, but most fuels like butane etc) are non-polar. The magnetic fields of their molecules are neutral.

Polar and non-polar molecules will not dissolve into each other. Like dissolves like.

Wow, I can still remember my high school Chemistry once prompted. :) Doesn't it make you wish it was school holidays so the people that have freshly learnt this stuff could chip in? :(

Edited by scathing

Almost.

Methanol, Ethanol, etc all have a polar end (the alcohol OH group) and a non-polar end (the alkyl CnHm group). That way, they dissolve in both polar and non-polar liquids.

That's why you can use Methylated Spirits (ethanol denatured with methanol) to "dissolve" water into petrol.

Anyway, back to the original question - I really don't know how the methanol would affect the octane. But I do recall hearing somewhere that methanol burns much cooler, and requires a much "richer" mixture - the figure of a 4:1 stoichiometric ratio springs to mind.

Ok, it here we go...

He visits Turbosmart i think

Its a DIY water/alcohol injection system

includes:

A pressure switch to turn the pump on when it detects boost

A one way valve

nitrous nozzel

and a windscreen wiper bottle with built in pump

The key is to create as much turbulance as possible to make it atomise as good as you can. It raises octane level, decreases charge temp and also cleans the engine of carbon...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...