Jump to content
SAU Community

Revs Drop At 5000 To 4700 At 3rd Gear And Then Slowly Struggles To Climb. What Could Be The Problem?


Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Can someone tell me what the problem could be?

When I rip the 34gtt, 1st and 2nd are sweet but as i put it into 3rd and once it reaches 5000 the revs drop down to 4700 and then it lags and struggles to climb back up and once it passes 5000 its normal again...

I am losing power at this point and would like to know where the problem lies? can someone please help me?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thank you.

Clutch dude... Between that rev range you're pulling the most amount of torque therefore a good chance it may be slipping. It's a good indication that your clutch is on the way out.

Yeah have to agree clutch is a strong chance. Not really sure why it would then struggle to accelerate once it's bitten though, bit strange. Could be just that it drops just below the rev point that the cam is meant to switch between the low & high advance setting. ECU may be getting confused since ur on full throttle & the revs suddenly drop.

^^ nope not neccessarly..

it can start to slip from 3rd and onwards, or even in 2nd.. After a while, if you dont replace your clutch, it will start slipping from 1st, and u wont be able to get past 20ks.. ahhah from experience..

I remember drivin on the last day to the workshop, with the clutch slippin in 1st, i could not go faster than 20ks..

Might not even be your clutch.. maybe a more knowledgable person, could suggest something else..

Correct me if im wrong but if a clutch was slipping, u would not be goin from 5k DOWN to 4700rpm... It would be the other way round cause ur affectively reducing load on the engine.... Maybe some sort of engine management issue for a certain load condition and rev range. U'd have to play around with diff Throttle positions once u reach that condition n see if it makes a diff, id imagine these ECU's get their load readings off the TPS.

I personally doubt that it's something electronic. How does a manual car suddenly drop 300 rpm without dropping speed at the same time? They're not like an automatic which will vary revs according to how much throttle is applied.... unless the clutch is slipping. If the revs are higher torque has less of a role to accelerate the car. I'd say chances are he's slipping at middle revs at peak torque. When power takes over the clutch bites again

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
    • Trailer prep is underway... Lined up the wheel to get a rough indication of how it would sit Then removed all the bits (as far as possible) and gave the frame a light sand and quick lick of paint   Then added some carpet
    • okay, so I figured this out, removed needles and reinstalled after swapping the gauge face on my triple gauge for my ER34, all work and look good. I tried to do the same for the main cluster, but the main cluster gauge faces are dished, the replacement gauge face are flat, so due to the dish in the org face ,mounting backing plate (clear) and depth of the needle, the flat gauge face will not work. I notice that R34 gtr gauges are flat, appears to be different clear backing plate that aren't dished. are these available, or what have others done to install flat gauge faces?
×
×
  • Create New...