Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day,

I recently brought an R32 off of a friend of mine and have now had it for just a week. Its an awesome car seeing as my last car was a 1977 torana (not that there was anything wrong with that car) but this has a lot more power and is a lot more newer which is good.

It has some mod’s being boost controller running the turbo at 1 bar, air/fuel controller, intercooler, turbo back exhaust, turbo timer and air filter.

I’ve was driving it around a fair bit but a few days ago i found that after driving it for a bit and returning home, the overflow bottle was bubbling and the car was pumping out a fair bit of heat. I just thought that because I had been driving it for a bit it might have gotten hot so I left it running for a few minutes to cool then shut it down. However the next day diving to a mates not driving hard, it did the same thing. I have since been to the mechanics and he replaced the thermostat and the Fan coupling and pressure tested the radiator thinking that being the problem but after driving it today and only pushing the car a little the temp gauge started to rise to the high. I backed off and let it cool and it did settling at the half way point and not moving too much from there only if I pushed it a little it would slowly start to climb again.

Apart from doing a coolant change im pretty stuck on what the problem is. I have thought of getting the boost turned down as that too might have been the problem.

I was just going to see if this might be a problem or people with similar moded cars were having similar problems?

I haven’t owned a car like this before so I am uncertain on what is and isn’t normal so any feed back would be much appreciated.

Cheers

-BD

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107577-over-heating-problem/
Share on other sites

try a coolant fluch and clean the radiator..

while doing that look into the radiator.. if there is heaps of rust muck in there.. if there is you might need to get it replaced or professionally cleaned out.. (try a DIY flush first maybe)

are you losing much water? also a mechanic can do a check on the radiator for exhaust gas to test the head gasket.

process of elimination unfortunately.

  • 2 weeks later...

How do you check for exhaust in the radiator? I'm having the same problem. It appears the car gets hotter at night than it does during the day which is even wierder? Or it might be that I aren't driving it as hard during the day possibly...

I'm actually thinking water pump now, as i'm not sure it was replaced at the 100,000k mark.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...