Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys.. Recently added a lcd and dvd headunit to my skyline and now i want too add new speakers before i transfer my Rockford Amp and 12inch sub from my sil too the sky.

Ive been looking at getting Pioneer TS-C160R for the fronts and TS-D61S for the rears.

Link for the rears: http://www.pioneer.com.au/car_entertainmen...691s/index.html

Link for the fronts: http://www.pioneer.com.au/car_entertainmen...160r/index.html

I know that i will need to get a spacer for the rear too fit the 6x9's in. Just wanting to know whether this would be a good set up in the skyline and i also need to know what amp too get that will provide enough power for the speakers.

If anyone knows any other good speaker set up please let me know.

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107594-advice-on-sound-system-for-r33/
Share on other sites

I've got pioneer 3-ways in the front, would def recommend getting the splits for the front..

As for the rears.. well.. you'll have to hack a bit of the back up to put them in as it's a structural support for the car..

Try and get an amp and do it all at once.. the Splits will be much better than..

thanks for the reply.. when you say hack a abit of the back.. wat do u mean by that??? acutally moved the parcel shelf??? Or just adding the spacers??

Yeah i know i need a amp but how many watts and channels do i need to support the speakers? Correct me if im right but i know i need a 4 channel amp???

4 channel amp to run 4 speakers, sure. If you're running the sub, you'd need a 5 channel or a 4 and a seperate amp to drive the sub.

By hacking the parcel-tray, he means: cut the metal underneath the wooden parcel tray. Never do this! As mentioned, it's structural, and shouldn't be messed with for the sake of fitting speakers.

I've heard that 6x9's will fit with a spacer, but that just looks too bodgey for my likings. =-]

If you're running a sub, you just need nice 2 or 3-way 6.5" drivers for rear "fill"... they don't really need to produce much bass at all. (that's the subs job!)

Edited by RANDY

Ive got 330w pioneer 6/9"s in the back and splits in the front and an 800w pioneer sub in the boot all powered by a 3200w 5 channel amp screwed to the back of the sub box in my R33, it was a real and I mean major prick getting the std speakers out of the parcel shelf and had to use spacers to fit the 6/9s but the sound is awsome in a coupe, the spacers dont look to bad for the moment but soon im going to copy what a mate did in his commo when he put 7/10s in and make moulded spacers for the shelf and just buy some shelf carpet and retrim the shelf around the spacers up to the edge of the speakers it looks pretty neat in his commo as if it was built like that and is not really a big job, just cut like two or three pieces of chip board with a jigsaw each smaller than the next to fit around the speakers glue the pieces together and then file and sand the edges to slope up towards the speakers, pull the carpet of the shelf and glue or screw your new spacers in then add the new carpet up over the spacers cut the holes in the carpet for the speakers and along the edges of the shelf making sure its all smooth then glue it down and your done just drop the speakers in and add screws and youve got a custom shelf and it looks mint, neither my mate or I are motor trimmers or the like and it looks professional, dosn't cost much and only takes a couple of hours like I said the hardest part is taking out the standard speakers I had to break the plastic mounts to get them out but you dont need them if your using bigger speakers unless your thinking of putting the stock ones back later.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
    • Hi All, putting the engine back together and everything is perfect except have this plug left over.. any ideas what it is for and where it goes? Is on cold side under the intake plenum *note not a stock plug, as everything has been modified Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...