Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i could get 4 so i replaced 4, the other two didnt need replacing. they were 2nd hand in top condition.

i got the head gasket off someone who had is spare from a vrs kit. i forgot to add that to the list, ill do that now.

the assembly lube is a really light mix, its more than likley to be ignited within a few cycles, we did use them on the bearings but my brother in law said it was fine to use on the rings, we only used a light layer.

Well on the topic, to run it in basically:

Change oil and filter at 500 and 2000klm. mineral oil only.

Keep it under say 4000rpm, no boost

Don't let it idle or stay at the same revs for long periods.

And do a compression test early and at the end of the run in cycle to make sure it all is fine.

No idea about the assembly grease in the bores I used oil personally, but hey look where that got me.....keep us posted about how it goes.

Some questions about what you ended up doing for the bottom end prep, did you do any cleaning, testing, clearance measuring or balancing? And which grade pistons did you get and if you didn't get the clearances checked how do you know they were correct? same question for the bearings did you measure the clearance or just put standard ones in? Did you check the ring end gaps?

Wow.. seeing as I'm possibly going to be off the road for a while I'd love to learn about how to maintain, clean etc my engine.

1000K's of under 3000-4000rpm would drive me crazy.. I guess you could knock that off over Friday, Sat and Sun if you were really keen tho..

Some questions about what you ended up doing for the bottom end prep, did you do any cleaning, testing, clearance measuring or balancing? And which grade pistons did you get and if you didn't get the clearances checked how do you know they were correct? same question for the bearings did you measure the clearance or just put standard ones in? Did you check the ring end gaps?

all we did was hone the bores, we checked the clearances with a dial gauge (i think its called).

the crank and old bearings didnt have any ware on it so we just threw in some standard bearings. most of the questions my brother in law has answers for, he tried to explain them to me but i dont really get into the fine details of it all, hes the master mechanic.

I just noticed in the pics you posted the block is in the car . Did you hone it in the car ? How did you get the crank off To change the main bearings? Its easy enough to change the conrod big ends in the car ( i wouldnt , much easier to remove the donk out ), but how did you change the mains ?Did you drop the box down and then pull the crank off ?

I just noticed in the pics you posted the block is in the car . Did you hone it in the car ? How did you get the crank off To change the main bearings? Its easy enough to change the conrod big ends in the car ( i wouldnt , much easier to remove the donk out ), but how did you change the mains ?Did you drop the box down and then pull the crank off ?

I was about to ask the same question.

I have never seen anyone do a hone with the bottom end still bolted into the car

its running!!

the motor was raised around 1.5inches to give us clearance for the sump etc.

we then pulled the main bearings out by turning over the crank while pushing the bearing out with a small flat head, then kept turning it while holding onto the bearing which then came out completely. it was alot easier than pulling the crank out, alot quicker too.

my brother in law will be at the cruise ill be organising once my cars run in so if anyones got any questions just ask him, hes a top bloke and an excellent mechanic.

and the conrod bearings are easy peasy to change. just so you guys know, the rb25 and rb26 conrod bearings are exactly the same so gtr rods are definately a better alternative if you're thinking about doing it. gtr rods are alot beefier than rb25 rods.

well its off the road again.. we tested oil pressure tonight and it was 10psi at warm idle and around 30psi at around 3000prm. no good.

its on stands ready to be ripped apart for the new pump.

damnit!

well its off the road again.. we tested oil pressure tonight and it was 10psi at warm idle and around 30psi at around 3000prm. no good.

its on stands ready to be ripped apart for the new pump.

damnit!

Are you sure its the oil pump ?

what else could it be mate?

Clearances maybe to big, a new pump is not going to help there .

Was the oil pressure good before the rebuild? If yes its not the pump its the way it was rebuild. Did you open the oli pump to inspect ?

the clearances were fine... there wasnt any ware on the old bearings, big ends or mains.

i dont remember where the oil pressure was before the rebuild, but i dont remember having a problem with it.

what im thinking is somehow when the piston melted it might've done something to the oil pump.

ill check the pump out anyway.. what should i look for?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...