Jump to content
SAU Community

Running My Engine In

SECURITY

By SECURITY,
in New South Wales

 Share

Recommended Posts

SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i could get 4 so i replaced 4, the other two didnt need replacing. they were 2nd hand in top condition.

i got the head gasket off someone who had is spare from a vrs kit. i forgot to add that to the list, ill do that now.

the assembly lube is a really light mix, its more than likley to be ignited within a few cycles, we did use them on the bearings but my brother in law said it was fine to use on the rings, we only used a light layer.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Well on the topic, to run it in basically:

Change oil and filter at 500 and 2000klm. mineral oil only.

Keep it under say 4000rpm, no boost

Don't let it idle or stay at the same revs for long periods.

And do a compression test early and at the end of the run in cycle to make sure it all is fine.

No idea about the assembly grease in the bores I used oil personally, but hey look where that got me.....keep us posted about how it goes.

Some questions about what you ended up doing for the bottom end prep, did you do any cleaning, testing, clearance measuring or balancing? And which grade pistons did you get and if you didn't get the clearances checked how do you know they were correct? same question for the bearings did you measure the clearance or just put standard ones in? Did you check the ring end gaps?

ignuz Mentor

ignuz

Posted
Posted

Wow.. seeing as I'm possibly going to be off the road for a while I'd love to learn about how to maintain, clean etc my engine.

1000K's of under 3000-4000rpm would drive me crazy.. I guess you could knock that off over Friday, Sat and Sun if you were really keen tho..

SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Some questions about what you ended up doing for the bottom end prep, did you do any cleaning, testing, clearance measuring or balancing? And which grade pistons did you get and if you didn't get the clearances checked how do you know they were correct? same question for the bearings did you measure the clearance or just put standard ones in? Did you check the ring end gaps?

all we did was hone the bores, we checked the clearances with a dial gauge (i think its called).

the crank and old bearings didnt have any ware on it so we just threw in some standard bearings. most of the questions my brother in law has answers for, he tried to explain them to me but i dont really get into the fine details of it all, hes the master mechanic.

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted

I just noticed in the pics you posted the block is in the car . Did you hone it in the car ? How did you get the crank off To change the main bearings? Its easy enough to change the conrod big ends in the car ( i wouldnt , much easier to remove the donk out ), but how did you change the mains ?Did you drop the box down and then pull the crank off ?

Blitz Grand Master

Blitz

Posted
Posted
I just noticed in the pics you posted the block is in the car . Did you hone it in the car ? How did you get the crank off To change the main bearings? Its easy enough to change the conrod big ends in the car ( i wouldnt , much easier to remove the donk out ), but how did you change the mains ?Did you drop the box down and then pull the crank off ?

I was about to ask the same question.

I have never seen anyone do a hone with the bottom end still bolted into the car

SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

its running!!

the motor was raised around 1.5inches to give us clearance for the sump etc.

we then pulled the main bearings out by turning over the crank while pushing the bearing out with a small flat head, then kept turning it while holding onto the bearing which then came out completely. it was alot easier than pulling the crank out, alot quicker too.

my brother in law will be at the cruise ill be organising once my cars run in so if anyones got any questions just ask him, hes a top bloke and an excellent mechanic.

SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

and the conrod bearings are easy peasy to change. just so you guys know, the rb25 and rb26 conrod bearings are exactly the same so gtr rods are definately a better alternative if you're thinking about doing it. gtr rods are alot beefier than rb25 rods.

SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

well its off the road again.. we tested oil pressure tonight and it was 10psi at warm idle and around 30psi at around 3000prm. no good.

its on stands ready to be ripped apart for the new pump.

damnit!

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted
well its off the road again.. we tested oil pressure tonight and it was 10psi at warm idle and around 30psi at around 3000prm. no good.

its on stands ready to be ripped apart for the new pump.

damnit!

Are you sure its the oil pump ?

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted
what else could it be mate?

Clearances maybe to big, a new pump is not going to help there .

Was the oil pressure good before the rebuild? If yes its not the pump its the way it was rebuild. Did you open the oli pump to inspect ?

SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

the clearances were fine... there wasnt any ware on the old bearings, big ends or mains.

i dont remember where the oil pressure was before the rebuild, but i dont remember having a problem with it.

what im thinking is somehow when the piston melted it might've done something to the oil pump.

ill check the pump out anyway.. what should i look for?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kaptain
      R33 general questions

      By Kaptain · Posted

      Im not entirely sure exactly what or where its leaking from, he started to pull the boots to swap to my new tie rods + ends and it just vomited fluid, so he closed em up up, swapped the rod ends to the old rods and let me know so I can figure a solution out, im guessing its all origional as as I passed 103k miles earlier this year im sure its just in need of a full overhual/rebuild anyways.    If i could just yank it off and be good it wouldn't be an issue to ship it out and wait for the turnaround but the guy I work with doesnt really have space to keep my car for a week or two at a time, would rather drop it off and have a replacement ready to drop in
    • GTSBoy
      R33 general questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What do you mean by "seals"? Internal hydraulic seals (ie, is it leaking PS fluid?) or the rack boots that close the rack onto the tie-rods? Because the former is a rebuild, and the latter is trivial that you or any nearby mechanic could do. Dunno about the cowl. Just buy what you think is required and get anything else you find/break afterwards. Wing? Dunno. Don't like R33s enough to pay attention to them. Mirror glass is just glass (on the surface that you want to polish). Go for it.
    • Kaptain
      R33 general questions

      By Kaptain · Posted

      Hello! Long time lurker, been using the forums to address concerns and questions from afar for a while but I've struggled to find some answers so I guess its about time I made an account and formally asked some more knowledgeable people, since finding local skyline owners is hard (and shops that are knowledgeable or trustworthy to work on 'rare' cars are non existent out where im at, as skylines are quite uncommon to find in the wild around here). So the main 3 questions I have, 1: Steering rack has blown seals, well.. they kind of hold but they are not sealed properly anymore and as my R33 is my DD, i cant exactly rip the rack out and send it off or attempt to fix myself. As most refurb ones are around $1,100 or more shipped, and I have other things I need to work on around the car, I was seeking clarification on whether an S15 rack will more or less bolt right in, and whether a common mechanic could do any other required work to get it to fit. I ask, as I've found a supplier than can sell a manufactured as oem one for around 400, if not I'll likely order a used one from Jacks JDM, and take a risk on the seals there. The second question i have is that im replacing the front wiper cowl and have planned to buy 4 new clips and a new center clip but wasnt sure if there were any other clips that would also need to get replaced while I was at it. Given im sure any that are there now will simply break when I remove the old cowl... Last thing would be a fairly straight forward question, i think. If I manage (strong if, finding one has proven to be a pain) to find a R33 GTR spoiler/wing will it require much modification to bolt to a S2 R33 GTST? I've read the bolt patterns dont match but otherwise would bolt in, only options I have found with much luck is China stuff on ebay and carbonetics, which has a nice $650 shipping fee... so if anyone has any pointers where a US chap could locate one that would be great Random side question as well, the mirrors as I understand are mirror glass, and as im planning to polish my windows from water spots and surface scratches, i was hopeful cerium oxide would be fine for them too, as my research points to, but clarification is always nice. Any pointers would be appreciated, and while I have scoured the internet for answers if I missed a prior post somewhere that may answer these directly please point me towards it, as i must have simply missed it. I have seen a post here or there that has mentioned it, but I usually get 50-50 answers, or half answers... I dont have a lot of fab experience or mechanic experience, outside of hydraulic and pneumatic stuff I did in the military and with how hard it is to source stuff in the US, id rather not wing it and hemmoraghe money lol. Thanks guys! Sorry for the monumental first post haha
    • AdiR34
      Did tie rods. Steering now not "springing" back.

      By AdiR34 · Posted

      Yep, there's a very minor drift left that happens a few seconds after letting go of the steering wheel, but not enough to bother me. Enjoying the car still!
    • Keeper
      S A U N S W Club Membership

      By Keeper · Posted

      Got you mate. Check your email!
×
×
  • Create New...