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Running My Engine In

SECURITY

By SECURITY,
in New South Wales

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SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
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i could get 4 so i replaced 4, the other two didnt need replacing. they were 2nd hand in top condition.

i got the head gasket off someone who had is spare from a vrs kit. i forgot to add that to the list, ill do that now.

the assembly lube is a really light mix, its more than likley to be ignited within a few cycles, we did use them on the bearings but my brother in law said it was fine to use on the rings, we only used a light layer.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Well on the topic, to run it in basically:

Change oil and filter at 500 and 2000klm. mineral oil only.

Keep it under say 4000rpm, no boost

Don't let it idle or stay at the same revs for long periods.

And do a compression test early and at the end of the run in cycle to make sure it all is fine.

No idea about the assembly grease in the bores I used oil personally, but hey look where that got me.....keep us posted about how it goes.

Some questions about what you ended up doing for the bottom end prep, did you do any cleaning, testing, clearance measuring or balancing? And which grade pistons did you get and if you didn't get the clearances checked how do you know they were correct? same question for the bearings did you measure the clearance or just put standard ones in? Did you check the ring end gaps?

ignuz Mentor

ignuz

Posted
Posted

Wow.. seeing as I'm possibly going to be off the road for a while I'd love to learn about how to maintain, clean etc my engine.

1000K's of under 3000-4000rpm would drive me crazy.. I guess you could knock that off over Friday, Sat and Sun if you were really keen tho..

SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Some questions about what you ended up doing for the bottom end prep, did you do any cleaning, testing, clearance measuring or balancing? And which grade pistons did you get and if you didn't get the clearances checked how do you know they were correct? same question for the bearings did you measure the clearance or just put standard ones in? Did you check the ring end gaps?

all we did was hone the bores, we checked the clearances with a dial gauge (i think its called).

the crank and old bearings didnt have any ware on it so we just threw in some standard bearings. most of the questions my brother in law has answers for, he tried to explain them to me but i dont really get into the fine details of it all, hes the master mechanic.

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted

I just noticed in the pics you posted the block is in the car . Did you hone it in the car ? How did you get the crank off To change the main bearings? Its easy enough to change the conrod big ends in the car ( i wouldnt , much easier to remove the donk out ), but how did you change the mains ?Did you drop the box down and then pull the crank off ?

Blitz Grand Master

Blitz

Posted
Posted
I just noticed in the pics you posted the block is in the car . Did you hone it in the car ? How did you get the crank off To change the main bearings? Its easy enough to change the conrod big ends in the car ( i wouldnt , much easier to remove the donk out ), but how did you change the mains ?Did you drop the box down and then pull the crank off ?

I was about to ask the same question.

I have never seen anyone do a hone with the bottom end still bolted into the car

SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
  • Author
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its running!!

the motor was raised around 1.5inches to give us clearance for the sump etc.

we then pulled the main bearings out by turning over the crank while pushing the bearing out with a small flat head, then kept turning it while holding onto the bearing which then came out completely. it was alot easier than pulling the crank out, alot quicker too.

my brother in law will be at the cruise ill be organising once my cars run in so if anyones got any questions just ask him, hes a top bloke and an excellent mechanic.

SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
  • Author
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and the conrod bearings are easy peasy to change. just so you guys know, the rb25 and rb26 conrod bearings are exactly the same so gtr rods are definately a better alternative if you're thinking about doing it. gtr rods are alot beefier than rb25 rods.

SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
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well its off the road again.. we tested oil pressure tonight and it was 10psi at warm idle and around 30psi at around 3000prm. no good.

its on stands ready to be ripped apart for the new pump.

damnit!

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted
well its off the road again.. we tested oil pressure tonight and it was 10psi at warm idle and around 30psi at around 3000prm. no good.

its on stands ready to be ripped apart for the new pump.

damnit!

Are you sure its the oil pump ?

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted
what else could it be mate?

Clearances maybe to big, a new pump is not going to help there .

Was the oil pressure good before the rebuild? If yes its not the pump its the way it was rebuild. Did you open the oli pump to inspect ?

SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

the clearances were fine... there wasnt any ware on the old bearings, big ends or mains.

i dont remember where the oil pressure was before the rebuild, but i dont remember having a problem with it.

what im thinking is somehow when the piston melted it might've done something to the oil pump.

ill check the pump out anyway.. what should i look for?

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