Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks for that Paul, excellent read... and I'll take your advice and read up further on the two.

Arkon, ROM tuning has been crossed out of my options list - too complicated, too little aftermarket support, too little tuners and at the end of the day too complicated to tune!

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

As posted many times, here is the problem.……..if you want more details so a search.

The standard Auto ECU has mapping to retard/cut the ignition on gearchanges. This gives nice, comfortable, jerk free changes and protects the gearbox from excessive torque loadings during the change.

NOT ONE after market ECU has that mapping, it is extensive, complex and therefore expensive to program. Supposedly there are more lines of code in the auto mapping than there are to run the engine.

If you completely replace the standard ECU you get no ignition retard/cut and the higher power you have the rougher the gearchanges and the quicker the gear box will wear out the 2nd gear bands and 3 + 4 clutches.

To retain ignition retard/cut you have to leave the standard ECU in control of the ignition timing. You can use any other ECU to run the injection. Hardly ideal but workable. Other than the Power FC which uses the AFM, the other ECUs’ use MAP sensors. You could use a Power FC to run the injectors and the standard ECU to run the ignition, obviously having no control over the ignition will limit your tuning options.

Using the SAFC on its own, you (or the tuner) have obviously hit the compromise limit. Less fuel needed, but the ignition is already too advanced. That usually happens around 225 rwkw. You may find an injector upgrade changes the mix of those components and the compromise becomes less. In my case I use the SITC to give some independent control of the ignition timing. Since the SITC sits between the CAS and the ECU it doesn’t interfere with the ignition cut/retard on gearchanges.

Some guys have had recent success using the EManage, to give more control over the injection and ignition. The early problems with the standard igniters seems to have been overcome. Do a search if you want more details.

Some guys swear by the chip upgrade, personally I have had no experience with that solution. Do a search if you want more details.

I think that covers the options, for the Stagea I looked at them ALL for some time and ended up with the DFA (SAFC equivalent), IEBC (boost controller) and SITC option. My power target is 210 4wkw (equivalent engine output to 230 rwkw in a 2wd manual). I can not see any reason why I won’t reach that target.

Hope that was of some help

:) Cheers :D

So the general concensus is that not even the Haltech would work? In my Dyno Results thread, we were throwing some ideas around and some people were in agreement that the Haltech will be able to overcome the auto dramas.

Anyways, back off to tuner this Sunday - I'll bring a pen and paper!

So the general concensus is that not even the Haltech would work? In my Dyno Results thread, we were throwing some ideas around and some people were in agreement that the Haltech will be able to overcome the auto dramas.

Anyways, back off to tuner this Sunday - I'll bring a pen and paper!

There are 2 dimension to the ECU and auto discussion, the first (#1) is the control the ECU exercises over the igntion timing on gearchanges (that's the post above).

The other (#2), far less important, discussion is whether or not the ECU has the relevant outputs for the Auto ECU to make the right choices for the gearchnge. Road speed, engine rpm, throttle position etc outputs. Most ECU's have those, they are very simple.

It's the #1 that no aftermarket ECU has.

:laugh: cheers :huh:

stan

have you though about the motec m800. herrod perfomane in melborne have it on a big hp ts50 and it controls the auto in it which is a tiptronic. give herrod a call see what they say i know its a ford but might give you a better idea of how to get it to work.

Herrod Motorsport 03 9464 5100

talk to Robert Herrod

Cheers mr 32

Haha, Wink, how about you give me the money to try that one out... then we'll talk!

OK someone give me some solid answers... I'm hoping to get this thing on the road in a week or two (making a decision that is)

This basically means MAF will be more accurate on the say 20x20 map grid as it can move around very freely based on air coming in and always show an increase (ie: use the map resolution you have).

You should read up on how they both work to understand as it will affect how the car runs and drives. You should also look for an ECU with closed loop feedback (fuel economy) and knock sensor support

MAF (commonly known as AFM or Airflow Meter)

mass air flow sensor

MAP

mass air pressure sensor

would the accuracy of a MAP incease on a 32x32 grid?

no it will not, as when you reach target boost say 12psi

the map sensor will always see 12psi and say the amount of air coming in is the same value, as the pressure is always the same. so it will just flat line along the LOAD axis despite more and more coming it.

basically v8 map sensor style. the tune increase purely on rpm increasing

no it will not, as when you reach target boost say 12psi

the map sensor will always see 12psi and say the amount of air coming in is the same value, as the pressure is always the same. so it will just flat line along the LOAD axis despite more and more coming it.

basically v8 map sensor style. the tune increase purely on rpm increasing

pm sent to avoid thread getting off track...

OK received an email from UNIGROUP regarding the TSI; all up cost is around $2500 so it's not a cheap option. However, it doesn't look like they want to go near this option for my car as they offered the alternative of the SAFC which is 1/10 of the price ~

Mmmm... one option struck off then!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...