Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just a quick hi from another new person.

Just a quick bit of about myself, live in boring maryborough in qld (its near hervey bay). Just about to buy an r33.

Its a 95 r33, black, 87 000km. Pretty stock apart from a hks cat back exhaust, lowered and 17's. I think its a type M too with the taller wing and different front bar.

Hopefully its quick enough, comfortable and reliable. Thats all im after after the last bloody car, modified tx5 turbo, nearly as quick as the stock r33, but bloody unreliable and no working aircon.

Thats about all of my story anyway,

Tim.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107974-another-noob/
Share on other sites

Yeah i wasn't overly set on a skyline, but seem like a pretty sensible choice. Not much more weight than an s14 (the most likely other car), yet more power, better brakes and gearbox.

Insurance was pretty cheap for me too (1k fully comprehensive/year).

Ill prolly keep it pretty much as is and near stock. Maybe a front mount. Dont really need crazy power.

Found some pics on the net, but they are pretty rough as it came off the boat a couple weeks ago. Might have to go some more once i get it I reckon. Looks a fair load better now.

Linky

Apparently someone here works for that dealer anyway.

Just hope it doesnt cost me too much in shit breaking anyway.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107974-another-noob/#findComment-1991680
Share on other sites

Just a quick hi from another new person.

Just a quick bit of about myself, live in boring maryborough in qld (its near hervey bay). Just about to buy an r33.

Its a 95 r33, black, 87 000km. Pretty stock apart from a hks cat back exhaust, lowered and 17's. I think its a type M too with the taller wing and different front bar.

Hopefully its quick enough, comfortable and reliable. Thats all im after after the last bloody car, modified tx5 turbo, nearly as quick as the stock r33, but bloody unreliable and no working aircon.

Thats about all of my story anyway,

Tim.

Congrats on choosing an R33 and welcome to the club.

AFAIK all R33 GTS25Ts were 'Type M', the front bar is part of a factory aero package which many refer to as an 'M-spec' front bar and the 'taller wing' is a Series 2 wing which is often found on Series "1.5" 1995 models as well.

LeonR34 is the guy you're thinking of, he works at Brad Bottcher.

Let me know what they're like as I've had my eyes on a few R33 GTSTs that they are selling.

Did you have a good look at any of the other R33s that they're selling? If you did could you please tell me what you thought of them? Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107974-another-noob/#findComment-1991886
Share on other sites

Cogs, not all R33 GTST's were type M's. So not all have the Type M front bar.

Oh there are enough here in pieces etc to sell the parts cheap but its not the norm, and go to Nissan for new parts and be prepared to hold onto to something when they tell you the cost. Then there is the fuel issuse, they like to drink.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107974-another-noob/#findComment-1991896
Share on other sites

Cogs, not all R33 GTST's were type M's. So not all have the Type M front bar.

You seem pretty sure but I always thought it was understood that in the R33 range, all turbo models (series 1 and 2) were all type-m.

The bodykits which people often refer to as 'M-spec' (or type-M) are actually just factory options.

Could someone please clear this up for me? :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107974-another-noob/#findComment-1991922
Share on other sites

THanks for the comments guys.

Yeah I let you know how it goes with the car (by pm of course). So far they have been good, tidying up most little things that werent perfect.

PM me with the cars in question if you want. They are only 2km or so from my home.

Dont worry, im used to expensive factory parts owning a telstar tx5 turbo, some of the stuff i have had to buy over the gears is just ridiculous. $350 for engine mounts etc., $450 for strut tops, the list goes on.

Fuel isn't a huge deal, i only live about 700m from work.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107974-another-noob/#findComment-1992123
Share on other sites

You seem pretty sure but I always thought it was understood that in the R33 range, all turbo models (series 1 and 2) were all type-m.

The bodykits which people often refer to as 'M-spec' (or type-M) are actually just factory options.

Could someone please clear this up for me? :P

No not all of the 33's were type M's. My friend had a 95 model that was just a gts25t not a type m. There is no such thing as an m spec on a 33 only mspec available is on the gtr 34.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107974-another-noob/#findComment-1993579
Share on other sites

Just hope you dont have to buy parts for it, kind of expensive to buy!

Sorry, but I think its statement is garbage.

There is massive support throughout Australia for both new and used Skyline parts.

I had a 1996 series 2 GTS-T, and that was great on fuel, in fact I got 600 km's to a tank on freeway driving and my car had identical mods to Turbo Tim's - so I cant say that I agree with your comments about fuel consumption either. If the car were significantly modified, thats a different story.

Turbo Tim's car looks like a typical series 1.5 R33, nothing more.

Regardless, welcome to SAU and the world of Skyline ownership Tim :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107974-another-noob/#findComment-1993728
Share on other sites

Yeah i reckon driving style with have a lot to do with it (in regard to both parts and fuel). I found the same in my old cars, it would break stuff on a weekly basis if I drove it hard, but once i got over that it was fine, and would get as low as 7l/100km on the highway when a lot of people cant break below 10 with the same car.

Yeah mines a typical s1.5 r33, i dont really want anything more though. Don't need anything ridiculous quick or attention grabbing so it suits me just fine. Maybe a front mount and a little more boost, but that will be all thats for sure. I would have like a s2, but seems like a fair step up from the 14.5 i am spending now. Especially considering im not hugely sold on a skyling anyway. It will probably just be an in between car anyway.

Sorry about the long and rambling post :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107974-another-noob/#findComment-1994124
Share on other sites

I had a 1996 series 2 GTS-T, and that was great on fuel, in fact I got 600 km's to a tank on freeway driving

mate you're the exception to the rule then

i dont know too many skylines that would return that sort of economy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107974-another-noob/#findComment-1994410
Share on other sites

You seem pretty sure but I always thought it was understood that in the R33 range, all turbo models (series 1 and 2) were all type-m.

The bodykits which people often refer to as 'M-spec' (or type-M) are actually just factory options.

Could someone please clear this up for me? >_<

series two are an M spec in the R32 and R33

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107974-another-noob/#findComment-1995478
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
    • I saw your intro update, are you sure you've actually had a starter motor failure? You mention it could be the alarm causing it. I'm assuming you've got a no start issue, but what are the exact symptoms, as there could be a few reasons it has stopped wanting to start.
×
×
  • Create New...