Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The car got T-Boned on the passenger side So pretty much everything is available.

************************This is All that is left********************

*Hybrid copy FMIC $180

*GTR side skirt rhs only $60

*K&N Pod filter and adapter plate $60

*2xPirelli 18" 265's off the back of a ferrari 355 $80each 70%tread

*stock front pipe $30

*stock cat $40

*Boot is fully sound deaded and and is solid $150

*Cheapo pod filter $15

*The SAAS seat i am selling for a mate who wants $300

*I have also cut the rear quarter panel out too, but window is now gone.

*Kingcrome piston ring compressor 60-100mm brand new unopened $25.

Contact me on 0417 125 253 Elliot, or email for more pics at [email protected],

Im situatated N.E. suburbs 30mins from the city(melb)

post-18664-1151464021.jpg

post-18664-1151464076.jpg

post-18664-1151464413.jpg

post-18664-1151464441.jpg

post-18664-1151464480.jpg

post-18664-1151464531.jpg

post-18664-1151464569.jpg

post-18664-1151464683.jpg

post-18664-1151464711.jpg

post-18664-1151464737.jpg

post-18664-1151465015.jpg

post-18664-1151465035.jpg

post-18664-1151480967.jpg

post-18664-1151989989.jpg

post-18664-1151990012.jpg

post-18664-1151990071.jpg

post-18664-1151990092.jpg

post-18664-1151990111.jpg

post-18664-1151990132.jpg

post-18664-1151990157.jpg

post-18664-1151990178.jpg

post-18664-1151990198.jpg

post-18664-1151991745.jpg

Edited by KLR32
  • Replies 107
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

How about selling dump pipe and front pipe from the turbo-back

system? PM me if you're keen. Also pics if possible, and how much

for postage to Mildura Vic 3500? Thanks.

"GTR grill in percect cond with all clips $250" lol u can get em from nissan new 4 dat much.

ill give u $80 for it

what nissan dealer sells them for that much?

are you sure man i priced one a while ago and it was considerably more than 250!!!!!!

Hks cast manifold and wastegate with TO4e turbo with all necessary intake and exhuast piping $2000 (cost $1100 at jpc 2 months ago just to get the intake and dump piping done)

What power were you making with that turbo set up? Do you know what its rated at?

Could be interested.

Cheers.

Will you separate the wheels onto pairs? I'm looking for just 2 wheels. Do they come with tyres?

Also, what kind of clutch and how much power will it take?

thanks,

Russell

How about selling dump pipe and front pipe from the turbo-back

system? PM me if you're keen. Also pics if possible, and how much

for postage to Mildura Vic 3500? Thanks.

I'll be selling the dump pipe with the turbo kit as i had it made to suit the low mount hks manifold. As for the front pipe its 3" stainless $100, but not 100% sure it its still straight.

I'm interested in the whole exhaust, pics would be great? Any ideas on postage to Adelaide 5022.

Sorry not willing to post any items atm especially interstate unless small.

What power were you making with that turbo set up? Do you know what its rated at?

Could be interested.

Cheers.

i never had it dynoed but around 190rwkw on 13psi, but the guy i bought it ran a low 12 in a vl, but all i've heard is that there rated around 440hp.

Will you separate the wheels onto pairs? I'm looking for just 2 wheels. Do they come with tyres?

Also, what kind of clutch and how much power will it take?

thanks,

Russell

clutch is rated at 240rwkw

Pics of front pipe to [email protected]

Also, I'm in Mildura Vic 3500, so postage shouldn't be much of a problem or cost much at all. Want to make sure it's still straight tho! :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...