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When Rotor's Require Machining

Baz
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Baz Experienced

Baz

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Just curious at what stage, would you get your rotors machined? My car has pads which have just eaten away at the rotor and has left a 5mm lip around the outside of the disc. Now as far as I know you should only machine rotors when you begin to get brake shudder. My car doesn't get any brake shudder at all. Do they require machining for any other reason than of brake shudder?

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PMATT Explorer

PMATT

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Just curious at what stage, would you get your rotors machined? My car has pads which have just eaten away at the rotor and has left a 5mm lip around the outside of the disc. Now as far as I know you should only machine rotors when you begin to get brake shudder. My car doesn't get any brake shudder at all. Do they require machining for any other reason than of brake shudder?

MATE : Now would be a good time to machine them or replace if undersize. 5mm is alot of lip as it is probably the same on the inside of the disc as well.The disc rotors have a minimum thickness R32 GT-R minimum say is 30mm once on or below that thickness rotors should be replaced.If your car has a 5mm lip then i would say your rotors are gone.If you try to fit new pads they will not sit flush on the disc rotor AND IF TO THIN THEY CAN CRACK.

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

5mm ?! you sure.. er .. maybe you mean 0.5mm ?

You have to watch some pads as they don't fully come to the edge of the disc, leading the type of lipping you are experiencing.

After a machine, you'll notice a difference.. everything is just that much better.. a flatter contact area means the pads will bite better, more even heat spread, etc.

MerlinTheHapyPig Mentor

MerlinTheHapyPig

Posted
Posted

measure your rotor thickness with a micrometer and compare it to stock rotor specs for min thickness. (i think dba.com.au webpage has this info)

If you have a 5mm lip, i gaurantee you will need new rotors! if it's 0.5mm then maybe not. Run your finger along the surface of the rotor, and if you feel noticable grooves in the surface you should machine / replace. With a .5mm lip, you probably want to get them machined regardless if they have reasonable thickness left on them.

They say you should also replace pads if you machine/change rotors, but if they still have plenty of thickness, just take the pads out, place them face down on a concrete surface and rub them a few times, that will get rid of any grooves imprinted into the surface of the brake pad.

Also, RDA rotors are significantly cheaper than DBA, and imo are just as good. (i think i paid $99 per rotor for stock r32 gts-t direct from rda, the price from dba was more like $180-200)

LoNg_ShaNks Community Regular

LoNg_ShaNks

Posted
Posted

Hey Merlin in your previous post you mention RDA rotors so im curious if you would know anything about RDA pads?

I ask this because Friday next week im taking my r32 GTS to a mechanic to have my front end rotors machined, brake fluid flushed and replaced and brake pads replaced.

I asked the mechanic what brake pads he will use and he told me RDA brake pads. I asked him if they were decent pads and of course he said yes :laugh:

So im trying to get some feedback from ppl about these RDA brake pads to see if they are shite or not?

Also guys how hard is it to flush out and replace the brake fluid? is it a difficult procedure? do i just need to keep bleeding the brakes in order to flush out the fluid completely?

cheers in advance >_<

MerlinTheHapyPig Mentor

MerlinTheHapyPig

Posted
Posted

haven't heard anything about rda pads, from memory, when i called up rda to get prices for rotors, they didn't have rda pads for what i wanted, they said they had EBC yellow stuff or green stuff or whatever (can't remember for sure), because i wanted something a bit better than standard.

as far as pads go, bendix range is quite popular and also rb74 pads, have a search because some of the harder pads tend to chew through rotors or leave excessive brake dust.

as far as flushing brake fluid. Buy some fluid that is a different colour from the one you have, get a friend to sit in engine bay and top up the fluid while you open the bleed valve on one of the brakes, then bleed it until the new fluid comes out, then go around to the other 3 and do the same thing.

make sure the fluid level doesn't get too low because you don't want to let air bubbles get in.

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