Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

: ok people.

my gtr is being a pain in the arse. :D

driven hard (old pac etc) the power steering simply stops working mid corner.

then cuts in at the exit or when you arnt pushing it.. :

the hicas has been removed all together(did it before i removed it too)

anyone with a r32 have this problem

ps.. has plenty of oil in it and the pump doesnt groan. the rack isnt leaking either...

any help is much apreciated. before i start throwing coin at a rack and pump >_<

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/108233-r32-gtr-power-steering/
Share on other sites

beats the shit out of me. never had that problem in the GTR... BUT, i have had it in the GTST. Power steering cut out, and hicas light coming on, and it was volatage related. so possibly have a look at alternator, battery, earths etc etc. i could be off target, but it's worth a look as poor voltage can affect some funny things.

: ok people.

my gtr is being a pain in the arse. :D

driven hard (old pac etc) the power steering simply stops working mid corner.

then cuts in at the exit or when you arnt pushing it.. :

the hicas has been removed all together(did it before i removed it too)

anyone with a r32 have this problem

ps.. has plenty of oil in it and the pump doesnt groan. the rack isnt leaking either...

any help is much apreciated. before i start throwing coin at a rack and pump ;)

i have this exact same problem in my GTR. only had it since having lots of power. 340kw.

im guessing its got something to do with higher revs too.

maybe the alternator and/or power steering pump need to have pulleys on them to reduce revs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
×
×
  • Create New...