Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well... i only have the timing light suitable for a lead ignition set-up.. BUT.. i do have a much much easier way to check. I recently found out that my workshop has a scan tool with DOES imports! SUCH a suprise to me, so I hooked my baby up, found that the base timing is on 5 degrees BTDC.. yuck.. :O

It also has a sweet setup where you can FIX and GRAPH every damn thing the computer is seeing. I now know why my car is running dog rich.. my oxy sensor was showing, yep, you guessed it 0 volts.

This thing is awesome, im so stoked (FYI its a Carman Scan pro, and yes im an apprentice mechanic at a fully equipped work shop:))

To adjust timing you have to loosen CAS then move it which ever way.. is that correct?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/108335-checking-timing/#findComment-1998272
Share on other sites

The scan tool will only show what timing value the ECU is using from it's ignition v load map. You will still need to use a timing light to set the ignition timing using the CAS so that the ECU is getting the right timing value from the CAS.

I find the best way to use the timing light, is to remove the coil from spark plug #1, use a short HT lead between the plug and the coil, and clamp the pickup around this. You can use the small loop of wire near the back of the engine on the ignition wiring loom, but I find that you pick up too much interference using this.

Anti-Clockwise rotation of the CAS advances ignition timing, clockwise retards ignition timing.

Edited by PlasticStan
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/108335-checking-timing/#findComment-1999008
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car remains in paint jail. I am now pretty convinced that the whole "RB25 Airboxes are kinda limiting to ~300kw" could be a thing. Also saw a good video from Engine Masters: (Sorry for FB link) (https://www.facebook.com/watch/?ref=search&v=761771519471924&external_log_id=c10bcbb6-2c39-4ff3-9240-287e9921fde6&q=Cold Air Considerations) Where they tested Pod Filter sizes and kept adding bends to a LS3 on an Engine Dyno to find if bends caused power loss. It's a good video worth watching - They did lose ~25hp from making an intake which had 3x90's and a 120 degree. They only lost maybe 1hp with a basic 90. I feel that by sealing up my airbox I have: 1) Created the same restriction a stock airbox would have. 2) Created a very convoluted set of intake 'pipes' by forcing all the air through the ducts. So I am pretty confident I'll be going full circle and have a huge hot air intake pod and actually see a benefit. The air does *not* stay hot once it gets flowing, aided by the ducts, and the pod can then pull air from anywhere. All the posts of yore talk about the stock airbox costing 10-15kw at 300kw+ but you know what? I f**king would very much like that 10-15kw and I remember my own pod filter in engine bay experiences. Turns out the GTT Reo and Headlight brackets really don't allow you to mount GTR items, no matter what the internet says. Various brackets have had to be made up to actually make it fit right for the front bar. Also some idiot mounted a 3L Accusump right where the bumper wants to go, so that has had to be 'relocated' To where, I am still not sure, but it's supposedly mounted in the pictures and I can't see it.
    • Sounds like the oil pressure light is wired into the oil temp sensor... As it warms up, resistance on temp sensor reduces, hence more current can flow and the dash light gets brighter.
    • Got the front subframe and suspension in.    
    • If it's cold in summer, then no issue. If it's cutting out every few seconds and you're not reaching your target temp, then there's an issue. One could be the pressure switch and the other issue could be the temp probe inside the evaporator.
×
×
  • Create New...