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Opened up the cluster to inspect the gauge itself for signs of damage and it looks good. Got curious since that needle doesn't go back to a "neutral" position by itself (it stays in the same position when ignition is off. so I manually moved it to 1/2. Connected it back, turned on the ignition and the needle started moving up! Not sure what's up with that but before that the needle was way down below empty like fully south west. There's always a chance that the needle moved slightly the first time I tried and I didn't notice because of how slowly it moves and how far it was from the markings. I don't know if the current needle position is accurate so I'll fill it up and see where that brings it. I guess I'll try to adjust it manually if it doesn't get to F. Looks like the needle position is relative and not absolute? Thanks all for your help and patience! -
You're confusing two different responders and more than one issue. The stock Neo ECU boost sensor is used by the ECU for protection purposes. It is essentially only an overboost sensor. It is not used for determining engine load for fuelling or ignition purposes. That task falls solely to the AFM. Any aftermarket ECU that either has an onboard MAP sensor or a plug in one, will use the MAP sensor as the primary load sensor. Or I should perhaps say "can", rather than "will", because some of them have the option of using other primary load sensors. That MAP sensor is not for the same function as the stock Neo boost sensor. The reason I recommended against a plug and play ECU is that they are intended to run a particular engine and usually in the car that the particular engine came in. So, if you have a transplanted engine in a different car, with some parts of the original missing (such as the boost sensor, for example) and therefore likely non-standardness of the loom and its insertion into the car's loom, then it is very likely that you will run into the same problems with needing to fix up wiring to make it work that you would with the stock ECU. And, if doing so for the stock ECU is enough of an obstacle that you start considering a standalone plugin as a solution, it should become clear that the plugin is quite possibly not the solution you'd hope it to be. It would just lead to more of the same type of problem solving work to get it going. In the above paragraph and in my earlier post, the lack of the boost sensor is not critical. It was just used as an example of something that we knew you did not have right, such that the stock ECU would not work. I took that as an indicator of a reasonable probability that there were other related problems hiding there. -
I can think of two places in my city of <1.5million population that specialise in automotive instrument repairs.Unless you're out in the wilds of Quebec, you have 3 major Canadian and 3 major US cities within the same distance as the single nearest city to mine. Surely there is somewhere you could send it.
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By TurboTapin · Posted
I never cared for twins but whenever these conversations came up, I always presumed the higher number represented a larger turbo. Learn something new everyday. -
By joshuaho96 · Posted
Interesting, I've never seen a failure like that before but with the age of these cars and the general questionable-ness of all kinds of parts these days you can't rule anything out I suppose. Boost leak testing the boost control system would've revealed this though.
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