Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have an R33 gtst with about 175rwkw. Currently have:

Stock springs all round

Rear shocks: New KYB gas - no adjustment

Front shocks: originals, can hear them clanking round a bit, got told when I put new boots on them that they were very worn

Tyres - Michelin Premacy 16" 205/55 on stock rims

Considering getting either Bilstein or KYB fronts.

KYB - $244 for 2

Bilstein - about $495

Just wondering if the Bilsteins will make much of a diff if only on the front...just wondering about people opinions who have replaced their tired suspension with KYB close to stockers and others that have done the same with bilsteins .

Do good standard shocks handle 230rwkw if in case I upgrade turbo in the future?

Car grips well in straight line but put the boot in at about 3000rpm round a corner in 2nd and it spins up pretty easy - but I guess it will always do that..

Car will only see track day once ot twice a year and definately don't want a firmer ride than I've got..

Cheers

Edited by benl1981

Thanks Ben - Might order them and wack them in

I find if the surface is a bit uneven etc and you put the boot in the rears spin pretty easy - sort of bounce a bit then get traction. I don't think bilsteins in the rear would help that would they? Much better than the old shocks though.

So you just have standard KYB gas shocks al round Ben?

Do good standard shocks handle 230rwkw if in case I upgrade turbo in the future?

Cheers

no they won't, anything over 200kw and you''ll have to get forged internals, Lumpy cam, hks wastegate

and big mac strut tops.

I was running bilstein shocks in the rear and standard in the front for some time with standard springs and the car drove beautifully.

Pay the extra and get the Bilsteins you won't regret it.

Refer here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85467

Sure :D

I have new KYBs in the rear which feel pretty good. Just want to complete the front so I know it is all good.

One of mine on the rear didn't rebound at all - you push the shock shaft in and it wouldn't come back out ehhhehe

Yeah maybe my friends has siezed !! Geee

hey mate,

I have kyb struts in my car, and some unknown jap springs that were in the car when it got here.

They are really good, especially with the springs. My mate has hks coilovers and allround his supension isnt mych stiffer than mine.

I think for a daily driver it makes a quite smart choice

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...