Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by hoon69

i got prices a little cheaper up here in qld,half cut it was im getting..at this stage,im going to ask my performance worx shop in brisso what i might be able to do to the j24 r30 stock engine,head work valves etc see what might be easier,i got a strong 5 speed which is the original one,im saving up and then i'll make my decision about the engine swap...some might say is it worth it,just buy a later 88 model or save for a r32,33 nah old skool for me,its rare and in its own catergory..

yeah a rb25det conversion sould be tight and a handful but should fit..

best way to go is the L28E, to begin with the extra capacitry helps if anything.

i have seen these with a cam, bigger injectors, ported manifold, XF falcon throttle body, and motec. putting out 250hp and thats running a dizzy still

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

sorry ppl's but my skyline just got sold,*hides under desk*sold the r30 in pretty good nick,stock motor 5 speed manual,for $500 YES $500 pretty good as the mags are off a 300zx and have 95% tread on em,am i disappointed YOU BET!! in dreading it,i had plans for her...but $$$ is tight and i have no way of getting her the 1200 k's it needs to get here from..

so yeah this topic was ABOUT info for MY car,but NOW IS SOLD (in process)$500 for 2.4 ltr 5 speed with 300 zx mags...its a sad day..

*cries*

later ya'll..

yeah its becoming a on and off deal one minute i get someone wanting to buy her then its off,so i decided at XMAS im picking her up,(as i have the motor organised for the swap)and plan to keep her a sleeper..i'll post more once it starts to get going..

Originally posted by stu_r30

good score

i may be asking for a few pages to be scanned from it in the not too distant future

Sure, If there is anything specific that you want (and you can be very specific, if its not writtin in black & white in this book then the info doesnt exist, its amazing)

I'll be rewritting and uploading a few things to my site.. the 1 in my signature thing.. eventually.. but I havnt got alot of time at the moment but I will try my best.

Tim

stupid question No 1 , whats the easiest way to tell if its lsd or not. my car should by all rights have a r200 but i think the last owner taxed it, the thing is is that when the back end is off the ground theres drive only through one wheel, but when i hand spin it on the passenger side both wheels spin but when spinning the drivers side thats the only one that spins????

  • 2 months later...

have you guys thought of importing a DR30 for uber cheap from japan under the 15 yr rule and straight swapping the parts over, there's some pretty tricked out race cars out there.

well a mate of mine just brought in a DR30 that's worked off its nuts, virtually a weekend track car (he takes it to phillip island regularly) for 11 grand. Pretty cheap for a race spec car.

  • 5 months later...

Heya all,

I see tis is an old thread but i thought i might as well tell you about my car...

85 Skyline Hatch

L20ET

Wolf 3D Computer

Supra FMIC

K&N Pod

Xtreme Heavy duty clutch

15" Hyperfangs

Koni Street Special Suspension

blah blah dnt know what else I have

130rwkw@13psi recently but leans out at high rpm very suddenly now...

Anyone running L2ET have any ideas ?

Later

Dwayne

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...