Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think you're still looking around the 1100 - 1300 dollar mark.

I get the feeling though that some time in the future sony may release a fully software emulation of the ps2 hardware for ps3. And then you won't need to get a 60gig. Thats just a bit of an eduated guess.

so its true you cant play ps2 games on a 40gb ps3 :rofl: i thought that sounded fishy but hey we are talking about sony

I think you're still looking around the 1100 - 1300 dollar mark.

I get the feeling though that some time in the future sony may release a fully software emulation of the ps2 hardware for ps3. And then you won't need to get a 60gig. Thats just a bit of an eduated guess.

I think you're still looking around the 1100 - 1300 dollar mark.

I get the feeling though that some time in the future sony may release a fully software emulation of the ps2 hardware for ps3. And then you won't need to get a 60gig. Thats just a bit of an eduated guess.

i got a feeling a chip is on the way letting u play copied/downloaded games as well as PS2 games...maybe more :yes:

  • 2 weeks later...

query:

Q6600 @ 3.60 ghz (2.4 stock) G0 stepping model

2900xt (two-off) with coolermaster glacier-600 water cooling

thermaltake bigwater 735

70degrees core 0, 69 core 1, 67 core 2, 66 core 3

on full load

is that too hot?

bearing in mind the graphics cards idle at 49degrees

runs at 47-44deg on idle

pump - cpu - pcie - pcie - radiator - reservoir - pump

had a nth bridge water block as well, but not on atm

might have to refit it along with the double radiator - just that the extra radiator has to sit outside the case :)

Yeah man that is WAY too hot for a water cooling system. I would turn your voltage down a tad - but you may have to lower your fsb too. What voltage are you currently running? I would think around 3.8v, which is probably too hot. Your CPU won't have too longer life at that rate. 44 degrees is way too hot at idle too.

Should not even be that hot with a really good heatsink and fan.

Put more case fans in and get more air flow will cool it down heaps. I have 2 x intake and 2 x outlet fans, plus the CPU, VGA card and dual PSU fans. There is no such things as too much air movement. Is the fan working properly on your radiator? I think it may not be - that would be your problem.

yeah thought so

better rejig it and add the external double radiator/fan system (its a 745 system, but only setup the small single radiator)

:)

the 2900xt's used to see 100degrees on air (stock) on load, so the water has brought them down by 35degrees

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...