Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

this is a bit diff to what i thought, but easier to manage whilst vehicle is in motion i would believe

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Asus-EEEPC-Solderle...%3A1|240%3A1318

Can you get an external HDD for these, or am i missing the link between HDD and SSD

this is a bit diff to what i thought, but easier to manage whilst vehicle is in motion i would believe

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Asus-EEEPC-Solderle...%3A1|240%3A1318

Can you get an external HDD for these, or am i missing the link between HDD and SSD

it has usb ports so you can get external hdd's but you dont want a hdd in the car due to g-forces and shock. ssd = solid state (no moving parts) and can tolerate a lot of shock. They also draw about 1 watt as opposed to the 12-20 watts of a laptop (2.5") hdd - thats one of the reasons the netbooks can get 4 hours of use. Some of them use standard hdd's on the 1.8" scale but these too still draw a lot of power.

That link is for putting the perspect touch sensor inside an existing 901 laptop screen - loads of people have been doing this but I think this is the first one I've seen which doesn't require soldering. SO very tempting, tho it would void my warranty....

-D

OK all you 4 eyed geeks out there ;)

I need to get serious about another build using decent gear without going over the top with price.

Input would be needed and appreciated.....here's a start:

Gigabyte EP45-UD3P M/Board...................$220

Intel Q9550 2.83Mhz CPU........................$413

Corsair Dominator DDR II 1066Mhz 4Gb.......$170

ATi Radeon HD 4850 1Gb.........................$280

Thermaltake 650W 'Q' Fan PSU.................$175

Samsung 2333 SW 23" LCD......................$290

Don't pay tax so these are all EX prices.......anyone do any better or suggest different setup?

Used for office work & video editing.........hence I normally run a Stripe Raid setup.

G-B EX58 DS4....................................$339

i& 920...............................................$469

4GB Kit(2x2G)DDR2 1066 Kingston.......$95

1GB 4850 Gigabyte.............................$287

Thermaltake ToughPower 600W...........$140

monitor personally im looking at this

21.5 “ 2ms HD WS Benq E2200HD Full HD.....$238

i was pretty sure not 100% sure just pretty that i7 uses either

all prices Inc. tax

this is what my mate gets at work

317986132.png

he gets to have a server on a 100Mb link to it too that he can just use to whore on torrents

/jealous

Weird - maximum I've gotten at Hostworks was about 70mbps on speedtest.net ;) .. That said, it does seem to depend on the time of day which suggests it may be a limitation of the testing server rather than Hostworks' connectivity though ...

I would be also be very careful of your friend advertising he 'whores torrents' on this server :)

sorry your right but for a little more than the dominator ram get some Gskill

4G Kit(2x2G) DDR3 1333 G.Skill NQ..............$215

you not going to overclock so you dont need heaps fancy ram Gskill will be quite fine

Steve, just checked out that GB EX58, it's 3 way, so would need 3 x 2Gb which may get expensive to go the i7 route.

Curious to know what the 1600mhz would cost?

Does your supplier issue proper tax invoices?.......otherwise no point if I can't claim the tax back.

Also the 600W ToughPower is noisy compared to the 650W 'Q' I think.

Hi Pete

almost the same as my setup except i run a 4870 vid card and asus m/board

i've had the 9550 running 3.0 ghz on air cooler for 6 months and it is magic!

I would go for a coolermaster tru power psu that has 5 year warranty

Steve, just checked out that GB EX58, it's 3 way, so would need 3 x 2Gb which may get expensive to go the i7 route.

Curious to know what the 1600mhz would cost?

Does your supplier issue proper tax invoices?.......otherwise no point if I can't claim the tax back.

G.Skill NQ 3x2Gb DDR3 1600mhz = ~$377(excl gst) and yes his supplier does issue non-dodgy tax invoices :huh:

that's good to know Adrian......because of work files & video work I won't be overclocking as I need it to run very cool & rock stable.

I know Antec also offer 5 yr warranty but apparently Thermaltake have just gone Life-Time?!

Haha, thanks for that Patrick.....problem with DDR3 is that it's still too dear compared to DDR2 so I have to decide whether to spend the extra $$ although the i7 over the Q9550 would be very nice.

that's good to know Adrian......because of work files & video work I won't be overclocking as I need it to run very cool & rock stable.

I know Antec also offer 5 yr warranty but apparently Thermaltake have just gone Life-Time?!

Haha, thanks for that Patrick.....problem with DDR3 is that it's still too dear compared to DDR2 so I have to decide whether to spend the extra $ although the i7 over the Q9550 would be very nice.

Unless you're running games, databases or doing hardcore rendering, its a waste. Stick with a quad core system and dual core ddr2, you'll get better value for that.

Incidentally re: EEE pc's, theres a new one coming out from Nvidia which replaces the i945 graphics chip with a 9300gm 3d accelerated northbridge.

Meaning the gfx card wont be neutered and will actually render HD properly. Interesting to note that they will keep the intel atom processor as the CPU, and that the 9300GM has integrated Phys-x capability (tho I cant see many games that use phys-x running nicely on the 9300, even tho it IS a step up).

I'll be keeping an eye out. Any excuse to put World of Warcraft on a netbook and run it across nextG is a good one. :huh:

-D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't like "actual computers" for in car use. They take time to boot up, have OS annoyances, and so on. Arduinos etc are ready to go a few seconds after power on, don't mind being agressively powere cycled, because everything is non-volatile, don't mind being shaken and stirred.
    • As Fred would tell us, it's all about interpreting the rules. It's not a water sprayer, it's a water mister... But everything else you've said, 100%! Even a raspberry Pi would be great, use HDMI out for a display, and add a raspberry Pi CANBus hat to read values out from the ECU.
    • Being a race car, and being in the era of the Arduino, one would think it would take little effort to build a controller to do the spraying based on a real physical measurment. Waaaaay back in the dim dark AS days, JE "designed" (as in, he had help) a microcontroller based intercooler spray system. It watched the difference between a temp sensor stuck on the core and one in the free air in front of the cooler, and if the temperature difference exceeded a (settable) threshold, it would activate the sprays. Thus, it only ran water when there was an actual need for water. If you stop to think about the actual physical things that are going on in that stack of coolers, there's probably at least a couple of triggering conditions one could come up with, and one could probably even run one pump with more than one solenoid valve, to allow water to be placed where it is needed, or at all points at once (if it is needed at all points). We're in the age of science baby. But.... I suspect that intercooler water sprays are on the forbidden list in most circuit classes, no? So only good for Targa type stuff?
    • I'll just leave this with, holy shit, those cars at work are awesome, and this will look wicked!
    • Could you modify this duct so instead it pushes the extra air through the radiator too and not down and out? For temps, I know it's not the greatest idea, but as a bit of a last resort, you could use a very intermittent misting spray onto the front of the coolers/rad. You don't want to be soaking them such that water is dripping off, but a small most on/off so that the water evaporates. That point of it constantly evaporating, rather than being soaked in water, will pull a LOT of heat out of the cooler. I'm literally thinking just the little mist sprayers for a garden from Bunnings. Being in a low humidity climate it will help even more! The other trick if you want to be ghetto is some shade cloth hung in the opening, and keep it wet. Pretty much now it's acting like an evap cooler on a house, but cooling the air you need to use to cool the radiator...   On a topic to think about too though, when air enters through the bumper, is it all nicely ducted from the edges of that opening back at a nice angle, or is it like most cars, and the edge of the opening just stops, and suddenly it's wayyy wider behind that? If it does the later, get it shrouded out at nice angles. When that opening changes too rapidly, it can actually cause a high pressure zone between the front bar and radiator, and limit air flow into that area, which means less air for cooling, as it effectively stalls the air, AND adds to drag...
×
×
  • Create New...