Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Okay, have an RB26 short motor for sale in bits, my car is running again so these parts must go, make me an offer

For Sale

- Standard Pistons & Rods $300 ono

- Blown R32 GTR Standard T28 turbos $80 (one seal blown, one exhaust wheel gone)

- complete R32 GTR HICAS 4WS (units only not steering arms) system $200 ono

Sold

- Rb26 Block with GTR sump +5mm overbore (SOLD)

Located in Sydney, preffer pickup if possible, postage can be arranged (not for the block tho...unless you want to organise a courier to pick it up :))

Open to offers, contact me at [email protected], PM or 0402065067 :P

can provide pics if required...

Edited by oRiCLe
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/108890-rb26-short-motor-parts-for-sale/
Share on other sites

BUMP! need to sell these soon, open to reasonable offers

PMs replied

short motor is just the block and sump, and pistons and rods, the crank is being used in my other engine, thats what i got it for, the block is in good nick, just needs a bore and a hone and shoud be good to go

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...