Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

9.95l/100kms?

That's awesome!

In fact, that's what I was used to in my standard AE92 Corolla (admittedly in city and traffic driving), which is roughly 700kg's lighter than the Stagea...

My best in the Stagea so far is around 12.6l/100kms which was a run from Sydney to Canberra with some Sydney traffic running, and a similar run on the way home with some driving around Canberra before the trip back.

  • Replies 216
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

9.95l/100kms?

That's awesome!

In fact, that's what I was used to in my standard AE92 Corolla (admittedly in city and traffic driving), which is roughly 700kg's lighter than the Stagea...

My best in the Stagea so far is around 12.6l/100kms which was a run from Sydney to Canberra with some Sydney traffic running, and a similar run on the way home with some driving around Canberra before the trip back.

yes, they are pretty bad on city driving, can only get around 450-470 k a tank with stop start stuff (12.3 -12.8 L/100), but 9.95 L/100 out of a tank on the highway I'm very happy with. Its like a "normal" car, but with all the prestige that comes with a Stag. PS tyre pressures are 42 psi all round too - heavy beasts benefit from more pressure for both handling and economy.

5km to the Litre of Fuel!

ever 100km eats up 20 Litres

Stock 4 door r33 series 1 skyline!

single turbo, maybe 2 never looked lol. think its one though

car drinks fuel like its going out of fashion.

is something wrong?

it got new plugs injectors clean.

EDIT by Ska: Made normal Size

  • 1 month later...

Well I thought I would conduct an experiment.

Firstly I ran my Stag until the fuel light just came on. Then I filled her up to the second click of the pump, 63.7ltrs of BP Ultamite, I usually

use BP cause I can use fuel dockets with them :(

Then run it until the same position on the fuel guage and see how many kms I could squeeze out of it.

So here is what I did:

* NO throttle above 10-15%

* NO boost, well do not let it go into the positive boost range on my gauge. There were times where it did go into the positive, but these were few and fair inbetween and it never went above the 5psi like a spike not kept at that level. I became an expert and modulating the throttle to keep the needle hovering around the 0 mark :P

* RPM match/speed match gear changes, still using the clutch.

* NO riding the clutch at lights.

* NO red light Grand Prix, not that I would, or anyone else here would....

* Driving along the route that was the best compromise between the distance to travell and the amount of sets of traffic lights to encounter.

* Roll along in Neutral when going down a hill, coasting to a stop, coasting along a flat piece of road, and generally when the throttle is not

needed to maintain speed.

* When slowing for a red light, try not to come to a complete stop and leave enough speed to easily accelerate using second gear, not first.

* Make gear changes at 2,500rpm or MAX 3,000rpm.

* Making most economical choice of gears. For example I was using 5th once up to 60kph, but if I encountered a small hill, instead of leaving it in 5th and using more throttle to bring on boost, down shift and use suitable gear that would keep me at the limit and not create any positive boost.

* Not going over 100kph. This was going to be 100kph but had to do a trip to Yeppoon and back, (~50kms), and the limit was 100kph so tried to stay at 80kph until traffic caught me then I would sit at 100kph until an overtaking lane and let all the traffic past.

Considered but did not do:

* Remove front drive shaft so that front drivetrain section did not take any load. Ended up not doing this as I assumed that since I was accelerating so slowly that the fronts would never be engauged.

* Turning off motor at lights or on extended downhill rolls. Ended up not doing this as the light changes were on average less than 45seconds, and turning motor off during downhill rolls could potentially be very dangerous if you had to take evasive action whilst in motion as all hydraulically powered equipment become sluggish. Also I would guess this to be illegal anyway.

* Turned boost down from 10psi. What would be the point in doing this, as I would not be hitting positive boost anyway.

Now about 4mths ago I had Mercury Motorsports do a "economy" tune on the power-fc, so I cant comment on the amount of power I am running, but was very happy with the tune for highway driving as they spent most of the time tuning the 80-100km in 4th and 5th with low throttle positions. Still the high % throttle positions felt great for delivery of power. Not even going to guess how many awkw I have atm.

So after lasting 9 days more than what a usual tank of petrol lasts me here is the results:

Firstly, driving around like normal: 300-350kms/tank (roughly)

Fall of Wickets:

Mark on Petrol Gauge - Km's Showing on Odo

Full - 0kms

3/4 - 134kms

1/2 - 169kms

1/4 - 154kms

E Light - 96kms

For a Total of 553kms out of a tank of petrol, (~63ltrs).

So it just goes to show you just how much you can stretch the petrol out to just by changing your driving technique.

That said, it has been the most boring two weeks of my life, on the drive to and from work :thumbsup:

That's fantastic Ska!

Now you are a bloody Volvo driver, haha, goes to show what you can do if you put your mind to it and wear a very light right foot.

Cheers

Luke

Edit: did a little thinking on this the other day slugging up a hill in OD and noticing I was on boost with low revs and contemplating the revs/throttle position/boost/injector cycle equation... I clicked out of OD and I was back into vacuum all be it at higher revs. A true economy meter would be revs/injector cycle based, boost should be irrelevant but in it's nature is probably a pretty good indication of fuel consumption and efficient driving I guess...

Edited by munchdesign

Best I have got so far is 370k's for a tank (City Driving). This is about 50kms more than previous best of 320. Thats completely stock apart from exhaust mods. Was driving pretty sedately though.

Gotta put on the DFA!!!! :thumbsup:

my best ever tank was 450, which was when i first bought the car, and doing heaps of freeway driving, now with all the mods my worst tank so far has been 274kms... cant wait to TRY and fit my power fc

Considered but did not do:

1. Remove front drive shaft so that front drivetrain section did not take any load. Ended up not doing this as I assumed that since I was accelerating so slowly that the fronts would never be engauged.

2 Turning off motor at lights or on extended downhill rolls. Ended up not doing this as the light changes were on average less than 45seconds, and turning motor off during downhill rolls could potentially be very dangerous if you had to take evasive action whilst in motion as all hydraulically powered equipment become sluggish. Also I would guess this to be illegal anyway.

Some random thoughts;

1. I have had this argument with one of the race team guys, who says we should turn off the 4wd on the straights in the GTR. My response was that since the front wheels, front drive shafts and front diff have to turn anyway, I can’t see how you would reduce the power train losses. Even you disconnect the front tailshaft the front wheels still have to turn, otherwise the car won’t move. So the rear wheels have to transmit enough power (torque actually) through the road to turn the front wheels

Secondly since energy can neither be gained nor lost, it really isn’t drive train “losses” anyway. The kinetic energy is merely being transformed into heat energy. Hence the oil temperature in the front diff should go down if the “losses” are less when the front drive is disconnected (ie; zero hydraulic pressure in the ATTESSA). So we tried it, guess what, down the straight the temperatures were the same. Hence no “losses” were saved by disconnecting the front drive.

2. On overrun the Power FC turns off the injectors (same as the standard ECU), hence as long as the engine is above the highest idle rpm, there is no fuel flow. So turning off the ignition would accomplish nothing (in the way of fuel saving) until the engine reached idle rpm.

:no: cheers :D

Fall of Wickets:

Mark on Petrol Gauge - Km's Showing on Odo

Full - 0kms

3/4 - 134kms

1/2 - 169kms

1/4 - 154kms

E Light - 96kms

For a Total of 553kms out of a tank of petrol, (~63ltrs).

Man SKA, 96 km on the E - light, thats nerves of steel. I fill mine back up once it gets there and we've never put more than 58 litres in the thing, ever.

Man SKA, 96 km on the E - light, thats nerves of steel. I fill mine back up once it gets there and we've never put more than 58 litres in the thing, ever.

Sorry should have made it a bit clearer.....

The readings were taken when that mark was reached, so from the 1/4 mark until the E light came on was 96kms.

I can only do ~30kms on my light, I have done it before, and conked out :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • For these last 7 years of ownership, I've always had to use a small scissor jack under one of the front tow hooks to raise the front just enough so my low-profile jack fits under to reach my subframe jack point. I'm beginning to get annoyed of always having to do this. Are there any lower low-profile jacks that fit under the gtr lip on a dropped car?
    • Seat of the pants assessment of the new intake: The car is way less "doughy" when hitting the loud pedal, especially off idle when stopped or in traffic, I did use a cheapo lazer thermal thingo to measure the temp around where the pod filter got its air, it was between 55 - 60°C, in saying this the car was shut off and not moving, so the OEM intake pipe was not supplying any fresh air to where the pod was when the car was at least moving A weird bonus was induction noise on the throttle in the cabin increased a bit,  I was worried that I was actually going to lose some of that induction noise I love so much, outside though, when I got the daughter to do a WOT drive by pass for me, the induction noise has increased alot when on the throttle, not quite ITB doort, but well up there I'm extremely happy with the results and have been exploring the country roads in the region  As for house mods: 1.New front fence is up and is awesome, it really upgraded how the joint looks from the street, and the added security is nice 2. Electricians have replace some interior lights, and with more lighting in the garage, a few new motion detecting lights out the front above the garage, front room, and at the front door, which I have already found heaps helpful coming and going, also now has fancy pants CCTV all round the house The only hold point for power though is the solar and batteries due to supply issues, although this will happen over the next few weeks 3. I have done a heap of landscaping out the front and I'm almost ready to do a new small retaining wall with some nice blocks to replace the brick and cemented in rocks around the raised garden beds cemented in river stone "was the fashion at the time" the house was built. I currently have a pallet of retaining wall blocks and 2 bulka bags of 20mm blue metal to replace the wood chip that is in the raised garden beds around the house 4. I now have 3 big raised garden beds for out the back to grow some vegetables, about 70cm high, 200cm long and 100cm wide 5. My 2 compost bins are already pretty full with brown, green and kitchen waste from the landscaping I'vedone so far, but they will probably take a few months to break down, so anything else that gets chopped, trimmed, and kitchen waste will just start filling the base of the raised garden beds to about 30cm before I start throwing 40cm of good compost, and stuff, for the vegetables to grow in, I'll need a few ton of compost and soil, but the local supplier can sent me bulka bags of the stuff Basically the logs, wood chips and a few strategically placed rocks for drainage, will give the beds some good organic materials down low to break down over time, and they will hold moisture during the warmer months to save the water in my big arse water tank if we don't get alot of rain So, all in all, the car and house mods are going well, and I'm really enjoying being retired, I sleep in too 0700 and slowly plod around inside until I feel like actually doing anything, and only work in the yard for as long as want, which has actually been alot over the last few weeks,  although when you look at it, it seems that not a huge amount of work has been done,  until I look at the before I started the work pics Happy days and good times indeed 
    • hahaha yeah. Plan is to get side skirts and probably just rear pods. But going to do them one-by-one. I've got a set that I really like from RHDJapen, but that one isn't shipped to AU. So need to find someone who can get it for me
    • Here's an idea, answer the questions I asked you as they are trying to work out WHY the LSD will be binding up in a straight line.
×
×
  • Create New...