Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I've been looking for some for my R33 for AGES.. There doesnt seem to be any places that sell them :D

If you do come across somewhere that sells them, start a group buy! Im sure there would be HEAPS of people interested in these. :D

I know they produce some for R33....I've seen ppl selling 2nd hand in the forum, but I'm not sure where they get them...

yeah I;ve been looking for those plates for R34 as well...have you seen the ones in Mercs? the writing actually glows..looks damn nice

ok who wants to put their hand up to make these?? :P Looks like we could get a group buy happening??? Ppl are making personalised nissan badges and so forth, making these kick plates would be a piece of cake for someone who knows their way round metal fabrication...even key cutting places that do engraving might be able to do them if we supply the correct plate??

Little update... n15m0 has come to me with this kickplate proposal and we are looking at getting it done. I've talked to my suppliers and staff and we think it's doable without too much complication.

2 Options:

1) Re-use existing kickplate and mount custom plate on top

2) Replace exisint kickplate with a full plastic/metal integrated plate

Either way we will need the R32, R33 and R34 kickplates for dimensions and moulds in order to make this a reality. I already have access to all three so that's not an issue.

Will keep you all posted.

EDIT: We are looking at the laser etching process to get the designs onto the metal - basically you can have anything you want from Letters to Pictures.

I think a complete replacement option would be the way to go, providing the cost isnt too crazy.

You could also sell them on Ebay or sell them to online car stores, and make some profit if they are replacement items too.

Overall I'd prefer replacement items, but if the cost is more than 50% more than using existing items, it's probably not worth it.

Just my 2c :P

Edited by Primordial

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...