Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

AMS i am guessing thats a genuine URASS kit yer?

Not genuine - Monkey Warehouse - So its very high quality. I honestly doubt you would be able to tell the difference. Let me know if your interested

yeah that should be cool man, it's not A1+ condition it has a scratch on the bototm, say call it quits at $75 maybe?

I thought i saw your car in the "world's worst cars" calendar! you're a celebrity now! :(

Best of a bad bunch I guess hey :(

*scores another one up...* :(

Back on topic tho, $75 is def ok.

And the kit looks good hey, better than that other one thats on everything, Im kinda over it. Yours is nice.

It aint no Final K!

Im Still only one in Aus!!! MUAHAHHA

Did you match your paint? ie from the paint code?

The side of the kit definately kicks out alot more than mine... do a drive by Siennas in Mt Lawley tonight around 7:30 so i can have a look bitch :drag:

JK

it's 9:44 pm and i doubt you'd still be there bitch,

the paint is never ever matched, that's just stupid cos they match it to the paint of how it LOOKS, the paint code will always be different 17 years after the car was bult

Actually the paint code is unique. I pulled up my factory paint code on the PPG computer and it has all the exact mixes, ingredients etc to build the paint exactly the same as the factory! PPG have been standardizing for a long time! :happy:

I just dont want your car to look gay with two different pearl whites!

Peace Out Brother!

PS I was there until 9!

JK

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Keeping in mind that for most people this is a week to month long job!
    • Its also worth mentioning that 30 years after it left the factory and god knows how many missed oil changes since, there is every possibility that one or more lifters are ticking because they are sticky/gummed up. To resolve that you need to pull the cams then pull each lifter, disassemble, clean, reassemble, soak in oil and re-install, and they should come up good as new.
    • What air filter are you running? Is it a panel filter in the stock air box, or a pod filter? Is the air filter the type that is oiled?   If you unplug the IACV, what rpm does the engine idle at?
    • Reading through the engine service manual their advice is do a cylinder balance test. Unplug one injector at a time and see if the idle drops a consistent RPM. You can also do this using a Consult cable which is easier. They also call for unplugging the power transistor, then with the engine off and the fuel rail unhooked from the manifold verifying that you have good fuel flow (even injection, no dripping/leaks, etc) when you twist the CAS by hand. Also verify the spark by pulling the spark plugs and allowing the plugs to ground and turning the CAS by hand. I would also start doing the sensor checks and idle valve checks in service manual. Make sure the MAF tests reasonably, the intake air regulator is sane, etc. You may have to get new spark plugs.
    • This sounds very old of me, however since buying the Tiguan shit box, my view on shit boxes have changed.
×
×
  • Create New...