Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Would love to but engine already built/running and tuned. cost too much to take engine apart to add cams now.

next time will get cams/ light weight pulleys for better accelaration. Going to get water/meth kit end of year and air intake for GTR then aim for 330awkw as now have 310. Never going to race the car just a daily driver amd 330 would be more than enough. I just get jealous reading everyone else's projects with 400+awkw and start to think is it enough....

kmart has some if im not mistaken
Strongly doubt it. Methanol is NASTY. They probably have Methylated Spirits (Ethanol denatured with Methanol)

(Methanol in the methylated spirits is what ultimately causes blindness in alcoholics)

My misses has cracked it about spending money on cars so no water/meth kit for her supra. Still getting FMIC/SAFC/Air intake box/EBC/pipe through cat for supra.Will tune for 16psi and around 250rwkw. (She agrees to that)My next step will be install the water/meth kit and pon cams for GTR and go for 350awkw. Should be a very complete package then. Will do this for next summer.

P.S she is still going to paint her car blue and get GT-spoiler and then Lambo door kit and finally blue/black leather trim. This is ok according to her as getting the money from selling her FTO. If you ask me money could be better spent on engine mods, but then again do I really want her to be as fast as me.

Hey Graeme - off topic - but what are the chances we can get a day out at Atwood one day?? :D

We always have to race that short track as part of the Dutton Rally and I must say I find it one of the most fun events of the whole rally.

Back at work Tuesday will make some calls to our driving school who run it and find out what we need to arrange it. We never use it on weekends to my knowledge so should be possible. Will let you know then.

Also if I get cams what size are best 260 or 264? Is there much price difference and where is good cheap place to buy them?

  • 8 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...