Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey,

went down to the drags 2night, to see if i could crack a 13 second :mad:

i ran a

13.854 second

Terminal speed: 102.26mph / 165.15kph

Reaction Time: 0.230

60' - 2.261

330' - 5.983

660' - 9.038

660' Speed - 130.69kph

1000' - 11.643

my car is an r33 with stock turbo (0.8bar of boost), hks-cat back, trust front pipe, stock dump, air filter + cai, fmic, ebc and coilovers. (car is kindof setup for drift, suspension wise, the rear was abit bumpy off the line and down the track)

Now for most of the night i was running a WRX sti, he was getting bettwen 13.1 and 13.3 with 166.10kph terminal speed.

My question is what can i do to drop my time into the mids 13's, i was lauching the car at around 2000-3000rpm and slipping the clutch out (i found 2500rpm was the best place to lauch as min wheelspin)

im not that fuss about dropping the time, as i have a new setup going in soon which should see me get around 350rwhp but im just wondering what could i run with type of terminal speed

thanks michael :)

youl find you were losing time against the WRX in the 60 foot time

( thanxs to has AWD I bet he was getting 1.8 compared to your 2.2), which is why your term speeds are similar but his ET is 0.6/0.7 sec better. You gotta get your 60 foot time down-better launch-more revs(2500 is a soft launch)-so more grip in a 2 wheels drive car so maybe Nittos -maybe better clutch also that you can launch harder against-then you will be looking at 13.4 or 13.5@ 103 mph

Edited by overev1
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And since the flush you have a blown head gasket? Have you lifted the head off yet?
    • The answer is to get a hold of the wiring diagram, work out what voltage is supposed to be where, when, and then work out why it is not there, then. I can't speak to the HR34 stuff, because I have never paid any attention to the NAs. There is a possibility that the turbo diagram will help, but it could also be different - depending on whether there is an FPCM on the NAs.
    • Hey guys. New here. I am having an issue with my hr34. The fuel pump isn't turning on. I removed it from the tank. Bench test it. Wasn't working. Order new one and installed it today. Still not turning on. Checked the relay. Relay has voltage on the contact side. I jumped it and it tuned the pump on. Which lead me to checked the coil voltage.  Turned on the ignition and had my meter across the coil and there wasn't any dc voltage. Had my meter lead on the positive and I used the frame ground and noticed there was 12 volts. Which lead me to believe the relay isn't getting a negative signal. I traced the wire ( black with pink strip).it goes back to the bottom on the steering and it gets lost into the harness.   I checked at the ecm and I can't seem to find that wire color.   My question if any one knows is. Can I not just run the negative through a ignition relay to turn on the fuel pump relay?. Or anyone ever had this issue and if so how did u go about fixing it.    
    • So many people don't notice it, as batteries decay slowly over time. Two big reasons people end up noticing and needing to replace batteries: 1) The cold weather. The cold not only makes it harder to turn the engine for a few reasons, but it also increases the batteries internal resistance. So this means you need MORE power to turn a colder engine, AND the battery has a lower limit on how much current it can provide. 2) Something gets modified/altered/added in the wiring, typically an aftermarket accessory, like a dash camera, or an alarm etc, and this adds a small amount extra onto the battery, and pushes it over the edge in its failing days. But if you hadn't have read this thread, and just pushed through, chances are you might have made it through this winter, just. But come next winter, it would have been kapoot. But the fact you changed it out now, means you've instantly noticed how much nicer it is for starting, and will be less worry for you that the engine won't start now.
    • Holy shit, I'm glad you brought up the battery issue and I'm glad I asked about measuring it. Old battery was at a healthy 12.82V in the morning with the car turned off. Removed the fuel pump fuse, clamped the multimeter on at min/max/average and cranked for ~3 seconds. It dropped down to 8.30V. So yeah, not surprising it struggled that much. Picked up a fresh battery from supercheap and it's ridiculous. Haven't done a cold start yet, but man, even with a warm start the difference is night and day. I can't believe I lived with this for so long. Just blamed it on it being an old modified car. Went with Century because convenient. If they are shit it'll be a future me problem. But just in case I set up a reminder for 30 months - 8 weeks to check on the battery state and get a warranty replacement if necessary. 
×
×
  • Create New...