Jump to content
SAU Community

Slow R33 Intercooler Install (in Progress)

Birnie

By Birnie,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

MMM Rising Star

MMM

Posted
Posted (edited)

also the fan blades were they essential to cut? i heard if you use a longer silicon hose on the intake side it raises it just a lil bit more and u dont have to cut... but i spose ill find out soon

btw ur car looks exactly like mine same filter n shit

Edited by MMM
Birnie Veteran

Birnie

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

For me, yes they needed to be cut.

There's about a 1-2cm gap but it's definatley clear.

...and the pipe is changing colour, I'm gussing because it's touch the heat sheild stuff on the bonnet...so i wouldn't want to raise it any higher if possible,.

Edited by Birnie
MMM Rising Star

MMM

Posted
Posted

ok guys i got about half a day left on this and i got 1 more problem....

see that little pipe going into the old cooler pipe i had to pull it out and on my new cooler pipes it doesnt have a fitting for me to attach it back onto.. question is is it important and what do i do with it?? it was on the intake pipe

IMGP4173.jpg

cheers :whistling:

jeffworld2 Veteran

jeffworld2

Posted
Posted

that goes to the boost controler and the wastegate, if your looking at the same part i am, the hose thats holding up that loose clamp on the cooler pipe. ...its pretty important lol perhaps you can plumb it somewhere else though? just needs to be before the throttle body but close as possible is better to get accurate boost signals. someone enlighten us please

Birnie Veteran

Birnie

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The little pipe needs to be used.

That's where the actuator (that controls the little outlet door on the turbo) gets it's pressure reading from.

If the pressure is to high, it opens up and lets some gas out so the turbo won't spool up as much.

If you don't attatch it, there will be no pressure reading at all and the actuator will keep the door on the turbo shut to try and get boost up and reach the 7psi level.

Therefore, you will have unlimited boost ! BAD !!

Your little needle will go right off the chart and turbo blades may detach...

You probably can drive around just don't accelerate to hard and your boost won't go to high.

Enough for you to drive somewhere to drill a hole and weld a nipple on there for you and all will be sweet.

...and if your gunna have a front mount, at least get a bleed valve !

Yeeehar !

Just got my car tuned on 12psi using the bleeder and a Power FC, and FMIC of course.

frigin hell!!!!

Scary shit and I'm only on 194 rwkws!

Good luck

Birnie

drewr33 Collaborator

drewr33

Posted
Posted

I would do what Birnie said... Maybe better to take that pipe off and bring it to a place to weld a nipple on. That way you can make sure all the metal filings are all out of the pipe, before it goes back together.

MMM Rising Star

MMM

Posted
Posted

ok guys i found a spot to put it.. my mate rekosn he puts it where the pipe going in to the pollution canistor thingy from the intake plenen.. seems to work i guess but i havent driven it soo i dont know? btw its all done :D biggest headache and soo many hours in it

Birnie Veteran

Birnie

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I honestly have know idea what that black thing is and if it has pressurised air coming thru it.

Take it for a drive, if your boost levels seem to max out at the same spot as before the cooler kit....ie 5 and 7psi....you should be set.

Now go and spend $50 on a bleed valve..tehe

chrissso Proficient

chrissso

Posted
Posted

Hey Birnie, The olny problem I forsee with your actuator feed is that the acuator will get vacuum from the plenum when the throttle is shut. I have read on this forum that the acuators don't handle vacuum too well, and the best thing to do is weld a nipple on.

Here's what I did. This is my pipe coming from the cooler.

post-19015-1151961403.jpg

  • 1 year later...
  • 2 years later...
seriesII Mentor

seriesII

Posted
Posted

hey. i was wondering what is the best way to rust proof a hole that you make?.. just paint it with rust proofing paint?. or is there something beta so it dont chip of when a screw goes through?.. thanx

Birnie Veteran

Birnie

Posted
  • Author
Posted
hey. i was wondering what is the best way to rust proof a hole that you make?.. just paint it with rust proofing paint?. or is there something beta so it dont chip of when a screw goes through?.. thanx

Hi, i cut the whole with a circular (metal type) saw on the drill.

Then used regular rough wood sandpaper to smooth it off until it was safe to touch with your fingers.

Then painted with a generous amount of rust paint.

I has it like that for years with no issues (and i have seen bad ones with rust galore)

I was going to get a piece of garden hose and slice it down one side for the full length of the tube, and then wrap that over the cut to help stop any damage to the pipes, but there simply wasn't any room after the cut and by that stage, i didn't give a crap anymore :ninja:

Wasn't going to re-drill bigger. Good luck!

seriesII Mentor

seriesII

Posted
Posted

thanx so much for that help.. i was thinking of puting some type of rubber around it and glueing it down or something so the pipes dont scratch.. but, so hard when doing small holes... ill use rust paint.. thanx again..

and yeah.. old thread coming back at you :ninja:..

  • 1 month later...
Birnie Veteran

Birnie

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Double check 'Post #8', then the 3rd pic.

It's a pic of the intercooler hole i drilled from inside the engine bay.

You can see the hole is below the bottom screw of the original washer tank.

All good

ksx Explorer

ksx

Posted
Posted
Double check 'Post #8', then the 3rd pic.

It's a pic of the intercooler hole i drilled from inside the engine bay.

You can see the hole is below the bottom screw of the original washer tank.

All good

Problem is that on my R34 there's some type of cooler (my guess is for the power steering oil) mounted in that area. It's not possible to move, the piping is hard, and it doesn't allow me to angle the original tank. I solved it yesterday by mounting a smaller tank inside the engine bay.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • dawhitehonky
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By dawhitehonky · Posted

      I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • GTSBoy
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • GTSBoy
      Rapid-fire squeaking/creaking from rear suspension

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • GTSBoy
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...