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Diy Aac Valve Cleaning & Idle Reset.

insu

By insu,
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ

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confuzion Community Regular

confuzion

Posted
Posted

Just another to show my appreciation! :) Great write up.. seems as though my gasket wasn't sealing properly, so I did it again and used the gasket goop as mentioned and now all has been sweet the last couple days so I think it's safe to say it's sorted.. Cheers! :)

  • 2 weeks later...
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insu
insu

Updated: 18/05/06 Disclaimer: This information is provided for your information only, anything you choose to do with this information is completely up to you and in no way will I, Skylines Australia

space_monkey
space_monkey

Thanks Anthony. I'll give that a go after I pick up some small screwdrivers. I can't seem to get my car to idle below 750rpm no matter how far in I turn the idle adjust screw. When I try to set the b

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  • 2 months later...
rad100 Grand Master

rad100

Posted
Posted

when i cleaned my aac valve the bottom gold piece that connects the two hoses fell out.

is this just press fitted? if so mine doesnt fit to snug.. its abit wobbly.

i put some sealant around to help it stay in there. is this normal to be loose?

cheers

  • 1 month later...
mikeyR33-T Collaborator

mikeyR33-T

Posted
Posted

when i cleaned my aac valve the bottom gold piece that connects the two hoses fell out.

is this just press fitted? if so mine doesnt fit to snug.. its abit wobbly.

i put some sealant around to help it stay in there. is this normal to be loose?

cheers

very good post :) but my issue is that when starting car for the first time in the day, it will kick over then idle very low for 5secs and die if i dnt give it some throttle to get it up to over 1000rpm..

everytime i start it, it will start but very low idle and dies.. today at 11am i started it, im in Adelaide and it was maybe 15degrees, turned it over let it start then within 5 secs it died, then kicked it again and it took about 10 secs to idle right....

would this AAC cleaning fix this or is it the fuel pump, im thinking of replacing the stock one with a WALBRO? and maybe even fuel filter and oxy sensor :) thanks reply or PM if you have any ideas

  • 1 month later...
Skylinestyle101 Explorer

Skylinestyle101

Posted
Posted

i thought i would give this a go and im very suppries by the results. I was finding that when coming to stop at lights of my driveway the car would drop idle to almost nothing then kick and drop again. it was ok if i kept in some gas as i can to a stop but would start faulting again if i didnt gas it. I just completed this walk through and am very pleased to report that my problem seems to have cleared. the car feels smooth when i come to a stop and the revs dont dip when i pull in the clutch anymore. big thumbs up and very handy guide

  • 2 months later...
Crumpy Contributor

Crumpy

Posted
Posted

I know it's a old thread but thanks heaps did the clean today worked perfectly no more rev hunting at idle, stalling at lights ect, feels like a new car :) and I didn't even have to adjust the computer idle switch which saved a whole heap of time however that bottom pipe is a real pain to get off and on but other than that a very easy job took bout a hour n half( I know nothing about mechanics either).Thanks again.

  • 1 month later...
Luke HCR32 Collaborator

Luke HCR32

Posted
Posted

I did the clean yesterday, ever since my car idles normally without the AAC plugged in but jumps to 1800 once it is plugged in.

I tested it by running the car without the solenoid bolted to the valve housing and noticed that even though the car was warm the solenoid would extend fully as soon as I plugged it in, thereby allowing a shitload more air through.

Fuse? Computer? f**ked solenoid?

aussietroy Proficient

aussietroy

Posted
Posted

from what i have read its under the aac somewhere on the block.

I have a similar problem to you. without aac plugged in it sits nicely at 800rpm. plug it in and it jumps to 1200 ....

I am stumped as to what to do next. Can anyone point us in the right direction ??

Also what happens if you run without aac plugged in ?? wontt cold start or will stall at idle or ??

Luke HCR32 Collaborator

Luke HCR32

Posted
Posted

As far as i understand that air regulator compensates for the A/C, the AAC solenoid should have a separate signal.

I'm hitting the dyno tomorrow I'll get them to check for a computer fault.

D.I.Y. Mik Veteran

D.I.Y. Mik

Posted
Posted

Heres a pic of a 32 gtst AAC guts.

It was filthy and needed a good scrub with carby cleaner.

See the dodged up spring, im replacing that of course.

Note also one plug and one pipe.(cant see pipe in pic)

?So when tuning the idle i wonder if i unplug the brown plug like you said (only one)?

post-89755-0-16827800-1333686471_thumb.jpg

Luke HCR32 Collaborator

Luke HCR32

Posted
Posted

I didn't manage to pull the guts out of mine like that, was that spring from the AAC valve or the solenoid?

Had my car on the dyno for a tune yesterday with some upgrades (Nistune, turbo, injectors, Z32 AFM) and I don't have the high idle problem anymore, guessing it was a computer fault.

  • 2 months later...
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Tom thanks for this thread, it has been helping people for 5 years :thumbsup: Including me today.

I've fixed the pics in the first post too. Anyone else with issues with threads, please use the report to moderator button, I didn't realise the pics were borken!

insu Rising Star

insu

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Tom thanks for this thread, it has been helping people for 5 years :thumbsup: Including me today.

I've fixed the pics in the first post too. Anyone else with issues with threads, please use the report to moderator button, I didn't realise the pics were borken!

Has it been 5 years? Jeebus. Where does the time go?

  • 4 weeks later...
Spring&WateR Community Regular

Spring&WateR

Posted
Posted

Hey guys so gave this guide a go... ended up snapping all the bolts holding my aac to the plenum :( any ideas where to get replacements asap ? probably going to give bunnings and supercheap a look tomorrow...

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