Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just another to show my appreciation! :) Great write up.. seems as though my gasket wasn't sealing properly, so I did it again and used the gasket goop as mentioned and now all has been sweet the last couple days so I think it's safe to say it's sorted.. Cheers! :)

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

when i cleaned my aac valve the bottom gold piece that connects the two hoses fell out.

is this just press fitted? if so mine doesnt fit to snug.. its abit wobbly.

i put some sealant around to help it stay in there. is this normal to be loose?

cheers

  • 1 month later...

when i cleaned my aac valve the bottom gold piece that connects the two hoses fell out.

is this just press fitted? if so mine doesnt fit to snug.. its abit wobbly.

i put some sealant around to help it stay in there. is this normal to be loose?

cheers

very good post :) but my issue is that when starting car for the first time in the day, it will kick over then idle very low for 5secs and die if i dnt give it some throttle to get it up to over 1000rpm..

everytime i start it, it will start but very low idle and dies.. today at 11am i started it, im in Adelaide and it was maybe 15degrees, turned it over let it start then within 5 secs it died, then kicked it again and it took about 10 secs to idle right....

would this AAC cleaning fix this or is it the fuel pump, im thinking of replacing the stock one with a WALBRO? and maybe even fuel filter and oxy sensor :) thanks reply or PM if you have any ideas

  • 1 month later...

i thought i would give this a go and im very suppries by the results. I was finding that when coming to stop at lights of my driveway the car would drop idle to almost nothing then kick and drop again. it was ok if i kept in some gas as i can to a stop but would start faulting again if i didnt gas it. I just completed this walk through and am very pleased to report that my problem seems to have cleared. the car feels smooth when i come to a stop and the revs dont dip when i pull in the clutch anymore. big thumbs up and very handy guide

  • 2 months later...

I know it's a old thread but thanks heaps did the clean today worked perfectly no more rev hunting at idle, stalling at lights ect, feels like a new car :) and I didn't even have to adjust the computer idle switch which saved a whole heap of time however that bottom pipe is a real pain to get off and on but other than that a very easy job took bout a hour n half( I know nothing about mechanics either).Thanks again.

  • 1 month later...

I did the clean yesterday, ever since my car idles normally without the AAC plugged in but jumps to 1800 once it is plugged in.

I tested it by running the car without the solenoid bolted to the valve housing and noticed that even though the car was warm the solenoid would extend fully as soon as I plugged it in, thereby allowing a shitload more air through.

Fuse? Computer? f**ked solenoid?

from what i have read its under the aac somewhere on the block.

I have a similar problem to you. without aac plugged in it sits nicely at 800rpm. plug it in and it jumps to 1200 ....

I am stumped as to what to do next. Can anyone point us in the right direction ??

Also what happens if you run without aac plugged in ?? wontt cold start or will stall at idle or ??

As far as i understand that air regulator compensates for the A/C, the AAC solenoid should have a separate signal.

I'm hitting the dyno tomorrow I'll get them to check for a computer fault.

Heres a pic of a 32 gtst AAC guts.

It was filthy and needed a good scrub with carby cleaner.

See the dodged up spring, im replacing that of course.

Note also one plug and one pipe.(cant see pipe in pic)

?So when tuning the idle i wonder if i unplug the brown plug like you said (only one)?

post-89755-0-16827800-1333686471_thumb.jpg

I didn't manage to pull the guts out of mine like that, was that spring from the AAC valve or the solenoid?

Had my car on the dyno for a tune yesterday with some upgrades (Nistune, turbo, injectors, Z32 AFM) and I don't have the high idle problem anymore, guessing it was a computer fault.

  • 2 months later...

Tom thanks for this thread, it has been helping people for 5 years :thumbsup: Including me today.

I've fixed the pics in the first post too. Anyone else with issues with threads, please use the report to moderator button, I didn't realise the pics were borken!

Tom thanks for this thread, it has been helping people for 5 years :thumbsup: Including me today.

I've fixed the pics in the first post too. Anyone else with issues with threads, please use the report to moderator button, I didn't realise the pics were borken!

Has it been 5 years? Jeebus. Where does the time go?

  • 4 weeks later...

Hey guys so gave this guide a go... ended up snapping all the bolts holding my aac to the plenum :( any ideas where to get replacements asap ? probably going to give bunnings and supercheap a look tomorrow...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...