Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yeh R31s suck, f**king faggots.

The First skyline to give birth to the RB really sucks cock, and look like ass, f**k yehh!!! VLs are the shit, dont buy a Skyline, buy a VL.

and yeh, a VL sure looks/is better..

i know id rather this..

7-1-2.jpg

1_16_11_2005_10_38_R31%20Hosue%20Drift%20Machine.jpg

aa8930.jpg

Uneeeeeeeetitled-2.jpg

than this..

0053.jpg

DAVYS_HOUSE.jpg

airbagedvlt-wagon-W28b.jpg

real f**king cool

fags

seriously

dont go for dr30 if u want first car - unless ur a complete r30 nut

very expensive car to run/mantain

go the vl - no, actually go r31 - hey at leasts its still a skyline

(and a rb20 engine swap is not that much comparive to a r32/3/4)

ohh yeah jasons r31 is off its nut alright - pumping out 187.6rwkw with blacktop rb20 - plus its one of the best r31's i no running around

if u want a sicker r31 check out emancipators/cookie monsters /bretts r31 - 208.8rwkw with rb30 still

http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=23881.0

i think he is looking at a DR30 not a R31.....

And your comparing apples with oranges there, get some pics of some hot VLs if u wanna compare.

yeh i know, but they were paying them out..

and i thought they were done up VLs

seriously

dont go for dr30 if u want first car - unless ur a complete r30 nut

very expensive car to run/mantain

go the vl - no, actually go r31 - hey at leasts its still a skyline

(and a rb20 engine swap is not that much comparive to a r32/3/4)

ohh yeah jasons r31 is off its nut alright - pumping out 187.6rwkw with blacktop rb20 - plus its one of the best r31's i no running around

if u want a sicker r31 check out emancipators/cookie monsters /bretts r31 - 208.8rwkw with rb30 still

http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=23881.0

i have 200 at the rears :no:

Guys I had a Vl and it was just bearble...

Dove it for 5 years though uni and until 3 months ago then

It cracked it's head

I though... First car needs to be cheap to run

Easy to insure NO! 2k first year 1.6k the next

When your at uni 2k is a lot of money!

I aslo ran it on Premiume fuel- that was a waste of money!

Sat in a R31 the other day and I now know what i was missing for thoses 5 years: quality, heaps of comnfort and no bogan!

R31 offer heaps more and won't crack their heads!

Cheeper to insure than a VL and have excellent sleeper potential

GO the R31

PS: Now I have GTR!

--- Do a search this has been covered a bit

Edited by NAman
seriously

dont go for dr30 if u want first car - unless ur a complete r30 nut

very expensive car to run/mantain

go the vl - no, actually go r31 - hey at leasts its still a skyline

(and a rb20 engine swap is not that much comparive to a r32/3/4)

ohh yeah jasons r31 is off its nut alright - pumping out 187.6rwkw with blacktop rb20 - plus its one of the best r31's i no running around

if u want a sicker r31 check out emancipators/cookie monsters /bretts r31 - 208.8rwkw with rb30 still

http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=23881.0

Have to disagree champ, the DR30 is NOT an expensive car to run/maintain...I can get anywhere from 450kms-550kms outta a 40 litre tank with mine, cheaper rego as well only being a 4 cylinder yada yada...only down side is if you stack it or something like that, parts are harder/more expensive to come buy then R31 stuff, but if you get a 2 door R31 i bet its just as hard to find stuff for them as well.....All depends on what you want outta a car really....DR30 is more of a lighter car and the R31 is more of a cruise car...my thoughts anyways...

Just to clear all this up, Boosted posted this for his bogan-spec 'DROP 2ND DO A BURNOOOOUUUTTTT' friend.. Who had decided to go for a VL ( Surprised ? I ain't. ) .. Boosted also meant an R31, not a DR30 cause he doesn't know the frikkin difference.

Oh and he was too Lazy to tell people he meant R31, but instead - say he won't buy a Barina..

So yah.. And _8005TED_, stop tugging yourself. You know I am teh loyal 4dr <3.. Thats why I'm buying one. :)

I don't get it ? You posted crappest looking VLs you could find too ? Oh no wait, they all look crap.

Thats a sign of pure jealously :teehee:

Also with those R31 pics, why are they all Jap spec ones? arent the Aussie ones good enough?

Atleast I posted up cars that are from Australia.

lol I love how the guy posted up the VLs and R31s, found the nicest 31s he could find and the crappest looking VLs he could find (Excluding the Walky). :rolleyes:

Heres some "Real" VLs.

BTW the bottom one is in my shed. :D

what? the VLs you posted are the same, paint jobs and chromies, how are they ones i posted crappy?

well i posted 2doors because i have one, but i also have a 4door, so heres some nice 4doors..

a_nissan_skyline_r31_11.jpg

NISR31-04.JPG

img15136ok.jpg

jss2.jpg

Have fun in your nissas powerd uleh mobile

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...