Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dean and Chris from Ultimate Performance Imports are skyline enthusiasts and have imported both mine and Steve's skylines from http://r33skyline.com

They also complete compliance on both j-spec and prestige's cars, and they are in melbourne!

Go down and see Dean and Chris at UPI or check out there website www.upimports.com.au you wont be disappointed!

:D

Originally posted by sven laptop

Well, tell me how long you reckon it'll take.

The boat is due to land in Brisbane on Monday the 3rd.

Which means you won't get it off the wharf till probably the 5th or later.

The compliance plate is there waiting for it & the car's booked in for the work to be done, or at least started, next week.

The compliance plate is only issued after the compliance work is done and the engineer has signed off on it.

Ask to physically see the green plate with your VIN nimber on it.I think you might be disappointed.

If they  are a VICAA member they can apply for the plate when the car arrives in the shop , but not while it's still on the boat.

So please, give me some words from the wise!

I'm guessing 4-5 weeks but if it's earlier , hey that's good for you

:D

Cheers

Ken

I imported my car from Geoff at PMS and he was one of the most helpful people I have ever come across. I have corresponding with him and asking questions for nearly a year before I actually bought my car - this was even before paying Geoff's fee. Try that anywhere else.

Whilst he knew the car I was looking for, he found something better than I had looked for and emailed me with the details. When I wasn't sure due to only seeing two pics, he arranged for more pics to be taken the next day and sent these to me.

As far as the process goes, he helped me the whole way and I didn't have to do much apart from meet people and pay people along the way.

I live in Perth but never actually met Geoff and I don't think there is any real need to meet the person - unless you are more comfortable that way.

First time importing car (under this "old" scheme) and would have no hesitation in recommending him.

Cheers, Al

nothing but praise

geoff was very helpful, patient, and very imformative.

i rang this bloke at all hours and he answered all my questions.

i dont think some or you realise how much money you save.

Even though some things seemd a little sus bout the car in the way of k's, im still very happy

erin

Originally posted by sven laptop

Well, tell me how long you reckon it'll take.

The boat is due to land in Brisbane on Monday the 3rd.

The compliance plate is there waiting for it & the car's booked in for the work to be done, or at least started, next week.

So please, give me some words from the wise!

Try asking the compliance workshop?!?

apart from anything else, they will need to know in order to schedule work at that time.

For reference, I was told 10 working days - so about 2 weeks from landing to "on the road"

a Copy of the email i recieved from geoff after i spoke to him RE: stolen items

(due to personal listings about my vehicle some parts have been edited..Loz)

Re: items inside cars, we try to choose the best option at the time. We

hate things going missing as much as anyone else. I'm not sure what I said

to you at the time but we do often offer postage of items if requested. It

costs about $150 to $220 for most items, so many times we choose to hide

them in the car instead and this proves quite successful.

Where the item would be broken or made inoperative through removal, or there

is not enough slack on the wiring to hide it successfully, it is obviously

left as is.

Other times, the supplier simply has no time to remove items, hell, many of

them ship 300 cars a month. It's all very well people saying "I do it so

our service must be better than his" and "go talk to my mate, he'll find you

a car", and "I can do it for you, I find my own", but let's see them locate

the volume of vehicles that we do and then check their record of happy

customers. It will be somewhat different to what they promise.

Cheers

Geoff

It's all very well people saying "I do it so

our service must be better than his" and "go talk to my mate, he'll find you

a car", and "I can do it for you, I find my own", but let's see them locate

the volume of  vehicles that we do and then check their record of happy

customers.  It will be somewhat different to what they promise.

Cheers

Geoff [/b]

hmmmm i dont think the comment about the volume and happy customers thing is a stong argument.... i mean not only he has access to all these companys.......I know who both of these two agents deal with on both ends and beleive me these people can be approached and dealt with for one or many vehicle by either trader or private person.....these peole do everything...so there is no need to say"i dont know anything about importing a car" all you gotta do is sign the papers.Actually once raws comes in i cant see that any of these guys will be doing a roaring trade anymore, i guess we will wait and see whats gunna happen

Originally posted by red17

Ken,

My car was sitting parked in my driveway 2-3 weeks after it was on the boat. It wasnt complianced and i was driving it on dealers, but still, it was sat in my driveway :D

Red17

If that is what you classify as covering the question , then I beat you.

I pick mine up direct from the wharf myself and are usually in my garage within 48hrs of the ship unloading.

Somehow I don't think that is what sven is talking about.

Oh and:D

Cheers

Ken

Alrighty then (and please forgive my ignorance, I'm a first time importer), I'm now told by the import broker that:

"It should take 3 days to get it cleared from the wharf and a week for compliance. Then a further week to get it to Melbourne."

So, does that sound realistic?

Anyone who's imported a car knows that you put quite a bit of faith in people you've never met to do the right thing by you.

I'm hoping and trusting that in my case they are doing the right thing. If anyone can convince me why I shouldn't trust them then I'm all ears......like Andy Caddick

...and by the way Red17, if I

Yes but the question you need to ask is when is the compliance plate going to be physically attached to the firewall.

Without that , sure you may have the car , but it won't be licensed until that green plate is on it.

Cheers

Ken

And to get this thread back on track , I have purchased a vehicle through Craig at J Spec and have absolutely no problems with him.

Am also on Geoffs email and find his info to be very informative .

At the end of the day it comes down to are you willing to hand over your hard earned to some one you have never met for a car you have never seen.

If any of that worries you then buy locally or from a dealer.

Truth is on a lot of vehicles atm , by the time the car is purchased and all problems rectified ( cos there is always something wrong with any car you buy. ) it can be cheaper easier and less stressful to look through the local paper or these forums for one already here.

Cheers

Ken

Originally posted by ylwgtr

.Actually once raws comes in i cant see that any of these guys will be doing a roaring trade anymore, i guess we will wait and see whats gunna happen

Yes time will tell...... will be VERY interesting to see the new law's

I'm with ken. and i don't know about other states but plates are not just sitting there waiting for a car.. they have to be ordered through canberra and then supplied in Vic by the place that prints them in Niddrie. times are very variable at the moment. Geoff always seems to provide good service as does Craig - both helped me out once where i had purchased a car for a customer through Isibike and they jacked up the price - Craig found out what it actually sold for at the auction, he helped me even though i am indirectly a very small competitor. Dean from UPI also offers grear service and prices. Geoff seems to specialise more in cheaper and previous accident repaired cars I guess you pay for what you get esp if you want grade 4 and five. Now is good time to buy prices seem to be dropping. Not many plates left though so be quick!!!!!

Hi gtrken & ice180

I concur with you both, all it comes down to is WHO you are willing to hand over your money. Craig and Geoff are without the doubt the most knowledgable importers in this industry. Services, quality of work, is much of a muchness, so you'll end up with the same regardless.

So back to the point, Kev, stop procrastinating and get off your ass and do something about it. I understand that time is running out, so given all these other people's opinions, what excuse do you have left? :P

Yeah thanks Scotty

Thanks all for the great advice. Indeed it seems as if many of the importers mentioned in this thread provide comprehensive service and turn out happy customers, so it pretty much boils down to if you are happy about getting a car u have not seen and a car that potentially may have problems when it arrives. Apparently (after checking with Craig) there may just be several plates left for R33s, so hopefully I have managed to scrape in in time. Lets hope I get to join all u guys in an exclusive club. :P

Originally posted by king_kw13

Yeah thanks Scotty

Thanks all for the great advice. Indeed it seems as if many of the importers mentioned in this thread provide comprehensive service and turn out happy customers, so it pretty much boils down to if you are happy about getting a car u have not seen and a car that potentially may have problems when it arrives. Apparently (after checking with Craig) there may just be several plates left for R33s, so hopefully I have managed to scrape in in time. Lets hope I get to join all u guys in an exclusive club.  :)

I think he's right cos I sold my last 10 plates for the R33's to Sydney .

I think there would be lucky to be 5 plates avaliable for R33 's in W Aust.

Cheers

Ken

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...