Jump to content
SAU Community

Master/slave Cylinder Wear

2LV8ETR
 Share

Recommended Posts

2LV8ETR Mentor

2LV8ETR

Posted
Posted

Greets guys.

A little while ago I put an R33 manual box into my auto R32. Since the conversion I have problems changing up through the gears where each selection crunches when changing at >3000 rpm. The clutch used is a 9 puck ceramic item with a custom 2.5 ton pressure plate.

I believe I have found the problem to be my master cylinder.

Last week I lost most of my clutch and when I tried to bleed the line, I found the fluid to be black in colour. I have put this down to wear of the seals in the master cylinder.

The kicker is that I bought the master cylinder new from Coventry's and that was only 2 months ago. At the same time I bought this, I had the seals in the slave replaced at the same time.

I think I need a master cylinder with a bigger bore to give me more throw with the clutch to stop the grinding through the gears, and this should hopefully be strong enough to cope with the increased seal pressure that the pressure plate is asking for.

Does anyone know what is out there available or does someone know something that I don't that could be another issue? Would an R33 master cylinder do the trick?

The brake/clutch specialists I have spoken to over here in WA don't know the answer.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111274-masterslave-cylinder-wear/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm actually not sure - I think it was "Stealth Performance" (It really is near impossible to find a FEMALE 1/8BSPT to 1/8NPT male at ALL) but having the thing leveraged on a 90 degree angle on a small aluminium fitting is not too smart. Also in not too smart, I've drilled out the center of the broken fitting so there's maybe 0.00001mm of thread to bite into, so yeah. I may have to get it drilled/tapped/plugged entirely. Given I could conceivably tap a thread/adapter/pressure line in any point in the oil system I suppose it's feasible to run a line to the Nissan Sensor to keep the dash working. Do these exist in AN fittings and the like? Like an AN fitting that has a NPT (or other?) thread as well for putting a sensor in?
    • sonicii
      Anyone running the VQ37VHR with forced induction?

      By sonicii · Posted

      I would agree.  There will be an amount of boost you could run safely with an otherwise factory system, but it would be low enough to not be worth the cost.  And if you are reliving your 20s, you know a 'little bit' was never enough. Personally, if I didn't want to spend the money, then stick with NA bolt-ons, and maybe a tune.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Fuark, at least the motor survived. What brand was the fitting that snapped?
    • GTSBoy
      Anyone running the VQ37VHR with forced induction?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • GTSBoy
      Starter motor replacment teeth count.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
×
×
  • Create New...