Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R33 GTST S1 (RB25DET)

The problem started last week, when i started the car up in the morning, it made a loud tapping sound (bit like a really loud tapped/lifter). Only lasted for about 5-10 second though, also ran rough during this time and blew white smoke?...(my wife was standing behind the car and saw white smoke). Any suggestions? i thought it might be lifters or even maybe the turbo???

I drove the car to work that day, drove around heaps on sat, and it had not made the noise again. Plus i could not see any smoke in the rear view mirror or anything. But it happened again this morning....so i just left it in the garage :happy: ....but same thing, it cleared up after about 5-10 secs or so. wierd.

One other thing, for a good while now i have noticed the bov(blitz) not working like it used to, instead the internal wastegate has been making more noise?? i thought this could just be because i have put on a bleed valve and am running 10psi. i did not think this was a related problem...but thought i would add it in anyway. the bov problem if it is has not been effecting performance, just means the wastegate is louder nowdays.

Any help on this problem would be appreciated, thanks :)

Edited by NYL83R

could be your oil pump. hows oil pressure? (dont go off the standard gauge). the problem you're describing sounds to me like oil pressure is low on start up. by the time the oil gets to your lifters it starts lubricating then the sound goes away.

white smoke doesnt mean much.. its usually condensation in the exhaust.

Agreed.

My R33 GTS25T sometimes makes the tappet noise on cold start up, not all the time and when it does it only last a couple of seconds until the oil pressure builds up, and the oil reaches the head.

As for white smoke on start up, it does just sound like condensation in your exhaust evaporating. Nothing to worry about, as long as you don't see white smoke under full throttle acceleration when the engine is warmed up. :D

Thanks, is there an easy way to check the oil pressure?

it may be what you guys are suggesting...after it made the noise last weds, it did not make it again till after it sat for over a day (saturday arvo till monday morning). so in this time the oil would settle.

actually, come to think of it, the car has been making a very light woo, woo, woo noise from the front of the engine while running.....i thought it could be air con pump or something....but mabe the oil pump making noise? i have not worried to much about it, cause you can only just here it while the bonnet is up.

I'd be inclined to think its the oil pressure too....btw, have you changed the oil recently? ....was it the right viscosity?

OR

It could be something as simple as a spark plug on its way out....

Had very similar symptoms on my Commodore, was rough idle on startup...turned out to be one of the plugs....

i don't think a bad plug would make a tapping sound when the car starts. i did change one of the plugs a couple of months ago cause it had split its shaft metal thingy. it was running rough then, but it was a bit different. I should have changed all the plugs, but only had cash at the time for 1 new one. (no bits of the plug went into the engine). i'm going to change all plugs soon, cause it misses a bit around 5000rpm, but i think this is not related to my current problem.

i changed the oil about 3000kms ago, using shell helix ultra.

Edited by NYL83R

i checked the oil, and it has not moved of its mark since i did the oil change 3000 kms ago. so i guess that means its not burning oil or anything. I started up the car (had not started it since mon night, and it did not make any weird noises....? so not really sure what the problem is...perhaps the very early signs of a oil pump dying...who knows :P

Take your car to a mechanic, doesn't really matter who, you just need one with a mechanical oil pressure gauge. Basically you just unscrew the oil pressure sender (to the left and down a bit from the oil filter on an R33 Gts-t, it has a yellow plug covered by a rubber boot) and plug in the mechanical oil pressure gauge. Run the car at idle and see what pressure it is putting out, see if it's healthy.

There is a guide on here that has the appropriate oil pressures for coresponding revs. I'll find it for you and post it in the next post, that'll at least give you an idea if your pressure is ok, which if it's not can lead you on to finding the cause of the low pressure, or if the pressure is fine? I'm not sure? take it to a specialist?

-Insu

I get a similar noise in my r33 when starting the car in the morning, I think its a f*cked lifter.

At idle its a ticking noise, its quiet between idle-2k rpm as I accelerate I get a tapping noise (which increases in vibration as the revs climb) between 2-3k rpm. then its quiet. (vice versa for de-acceleration)

It gets quieter as the car heats up and the oil pressure drops. Its really unusual. Going to take apart the engine and find the problem as soon as I get the money, it doesn’t seem to be doing any damage.

-michael

  • 2 weeks later...

I hooked up a oil pressure gauge, and there is no problem with the oil pressure, its very healthy.

hmmm, well the car has not made this noise again since...so not sure what it is or was. maybe just the car having a monday morning hissy fit?? ;)

I would guess that you prob didnt have the dipstick in properly or the cap wasnt tightend properly.

With your car at idle take the dipstick out and you will notice a change in note of the revs....soooo, maybe at cold when the oil is at the bottom it was struggling to get the pressure up and so the lifters were suffereing....

On cold morning starts, my car blows some white/blue smoke if i rev it into anything above 10 vac. This only happends for the first 10 seconds of driving (meaning, if i drive right away, if it warms up, i dont get the effect)

I know the difference between smoke and condensation, its not water.

Anyway, yes, my car is pretty loud for the first 5s amount of time too. Ive basically disregarded it as SK said it was fine :thumbsup:

About the woo woo woo, i get a woo woo woo, its my gearbox though. Is your car auto? woo's come from poor/partial oil flow, to either engine or gearbox.

I also get a woo woo kinda noise when the a/c is on, but thats a whole other story ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The cross sectional area of a circular hole scales with the square of diameter. So a 2mm diameter hole is 4x the area of a 1mm hole. Not double. The 1.7mm hole is nearly 3x the area of a 1mm hole. You do not need restrictors at both ends of the oil supply line. If you have new, additional restrictors at the turbo end, that you did not have before, then you do not need a restrictor at the inlet end.
    • Hi all. Been a while but things are moving along. I just have something that I am wondering about. Since I will use OEM turbo oil pumbing, I got myself a new bolt, the one that goes into the engine block oil feed. As I recall (and see visually) this bolt comes restricted with I think a 1.7mm hole? Not quite sure but it was something around that size. The turbos have 1mm restrictor bolts installed, as necessary due to ball bearings and my higher oil pressures. Can I now just use that OEM bolt with the 1.7mm hole in for the engine block or will this actually be too much oil flow restriction and I have to drill it out first? In my head it would make sense for the bolt to be at least 2mm wide as both turbos take "1mm of oil flow". Do let me know if my logic is flawed here, I just want to make sure I don't kill my turbo bearings with too little oil. Don't know if I can trust the saying I read somewhere that ball bearing turbos essentially only need an oil mist
    • There are several aftermarket options available, from not-too-painful moneyhttps://justjap.com/collections/driveshafts-bearings/products/d-max-reinforced-replacement-rear-driveshaft-set-fits-nissan-s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-c35 and  https://justjap.com/products/crank-motorsport-billet-rear-axles-fits-nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t-r34-gt-t?srsltid=AfmBOorQk4xkGUa98kO7v2ePLUiNt-HRrM2AwWNw9mbSIVE1ujBVwY__, all the way up to The Driveshaft Shop https://driveshaftshop.com/skyline-cv-axles/
    • Yeah based on old XRC5964S specs, it looks to be roughly GTX3576R sized? But this 5964S compressor will flow 90lb airflow somewhat similar to the compressors in both the GTX3584RS or G35-1050.. I fully expected the 0.64 rear A/R to choke up top - seems way too small from typical convention - but these are seemingly beneficial over the prior 0.82 results.. Be interesting to see if he comments on the EFR question in that thread - he mentioned in a prior video that BW EFR's were the "cats pajamas 10 years ago", but by the sounds of things all his kits have been using Xona for quite a while now.
    • Yeah it’s still got the oem manual gearbox and clutch, only kinda mods are a blow off valve, coil overs, and a aftermarket intercooler. Also had it for about 2 months now with a lovely midnight purple paint on it.
×
×
  • Create New...