Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have an auto r32 and it revs right out out to 7500rpm...

i do have a large trans cooler fitted though..

not sure why that's happening maybe something is worn?

what happens if you change gears yourself via the shifter? does it hold the gear then? what if you press the power button?

i have an auto r32 and it revs right out out to 7500rpm...

i do have a large trans cooler fitted though..

not sure why that's happening maybe something is worn?

what happens if you change gears yourself via the shifter? does it hold the gear then? what if you press the power button?

hey i know i would need some work on my autogearbox holding 250rwkw

i was planning to get a mv shift kit to reduce wear... what exactly does this transcooler do? help cooling?

paul i still dont quite understand the full things about turbo's

which of them would have a highest average power for street purposes also on an auto or doesnt transmission matter?

well there are lots of things that contribute to good average power.

the turbocharger is one of the main components but other things are equally important, particulary the ecu tune and exhaust setup. so dont skip on a good tune and exhaust setup. the turbocharger is basically an airpump, but it needs to get be able to rid of the gas quickly too, so a big exhaust is needed

i will have the usual mods for the turbo

that is why i plan to buy the turbo last... but i just cant figureout what turbo between these 3 will be able to pullout the most usuable average power on the street

also for a bigger transcooler... is there any room for that when a fmic is installed?

I guess your just going to have to trust people who do this for a living. I wouldnt advise you on an upgrade if i hadnt done it and wasnt happy with the result. also trying to advise you on the most cost affective way to go about it, but in the end , its your decision.

As for lag, Hi flow incorporates your standard housings, they are just profiled to fit a larger wheel, so lag will not change much at all. If you were stepping up on exhaust housing size, it may be a problem. Should listen to advice you have been given regarding gbox and converters as well as it will all benefit you.

at what rev does the gcg hi flowed turbo's kick in?

is there any site to help me on this?

i was more thinking on hi flowing but last thing i want is a laggy turbo that goes off for a bit then my car changes gear... no benefit at all

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...