Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there people.

Iv been searching around for a while now trying to find the exact model gts't that came out with the "GTS" or "ca18det" four stud hub and brake setup. Iv had a few people tell me now that all r32's fitted with the silvertop rb20det came with the 5stud hubs from the factory but i believe otherwise. I have seen 2 gts't skylines when i was up in queensland and 1 down here in adelaide that were apparently factory fitted turbo models but had the same brakes and hubs as my 32 GTS. I actually seen the original factory compliance plate on one of these cars and it said rb20det however the owner of the car could not tell me much about it except that he baught the car direct from japan and the car had no worries with getting through regency inspection.

The reason i need to find proof of the existance of 4stud gts'ts is because regency have told me that if i can proove in writing that they exist standard from the factory then all i need to do is have my car inspected after i do my turbo conversion for general roadworthiness instead of going through all the testing bull crap.

Any info or hints as to wher i can find what im after would be greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111783-4stud-gts-ts/
Share on other sites

there were r32's released with ca18det's in them and I think they were 4-stud, when I was looking for a car to buy one of the car's j-spec showed me was a ca18det

from memory, it was explained to me at the time that these were some sort of production test release, which is probably why you can't find much info on them.

I'll try and dig up the pictures that I was sent of the car...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111783-4stud-gts-ts/#findComment-2061663
Share on other sites

yeah iv heard of the cadet 32, and yeah your right i think it does have the gts hub. however this one i saw definately had the rb0det as standard cos the plates matched the number.

BH Dave i didnt know you could option the turbo in on gts models. but logically i think that may be the answer.

anyone else?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111783-4stud-gts-ts/#findComment-2063058
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

5 stud:

R32 GTSt type m - RB20DET

R32 GTSt - RB20DET

4 stud:

R32 GTS type s - RB20DE

R32 GTS - RB20DE

R32 GTE - RB20E

(im pretty sure all the R32 non turbo's had S13 CA18DET brakes...anyone know for sure?

Its most likely if you see a turbo R32 with 4 stud hubs then it has been converted from a non-turbo to a turbo!

Also there were no such thing as a R32 with a CA18DET...the very base spec R32 had a CA18i (carby 1.8ltr heap of junk...i feel very sorry for anyone who has one..id be very suprised it many if any were imported over here)

Edited by hawker05
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111783-4stud-gts-ts/#findComment-2124107
Share on other sites

ok thanks fellas.

recently while comparing my gts brakes o my wifes gts't i noticed that they are exacltly identical. Iv measured everything etc and i cant find any difference. The only difference i can see is the 5 studs coming out of the hub.

My latest idea around spending all that money in ditching my hubs and everything to convert to the 5stud is to redrill my hubs and discs with holes for 5studs to go in and fill over the old stud holes. A friend of mine whos rather good with mechanical things that i told and demonstarted my idea to rekons it would work. Iv already got multistud wheels as well.

based on my comparisons and measurments i cant see why it wouldn't work either.

Can anyone shed some light on whether or not this idea is falible or not?

Thanks again!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111783-4stud-gts-ts/#findComment-2149528
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, i’m making Vag coil loom for rb25det, can anyone confirm the wire guage i’m using for power supply in diagram is enough for supply not too small for loom? For earth do i need to follow the same procedure or i can use only 16awg wire for all coil and their connecting wire following to the plug?
    • Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
×
×
  • Create New...